Check "Installation and Delivery" Before "Capacity" When Choosing a Refrigerator
Prices, point rates and sale details in this article were checked by the mottoku editorial team against each service's official site and API (as of the last update). Always check the official sites for current prices, stock and campaign terms.
Before the fridge you like, pick the fridge that fits through your door
The most common regret when choosing a refrigerator is not about capacity or features. It is "I bought it and it would not fit into my home." Unlike a TV or a washing machine, a large fridge is deep and tall, and it should normally be carried upright. If you decide based only on the body size in the catalog, you can get stuck at the front-door opening or at a hallway corner. Before comparing capacity or freshness features, first confirm by actual measurement whether it will fit and whether it can be carried in. Just keeping to this order avoids most of the big mistakes.
A rough measurement is not enough. Think of the delivery route as the fridge's width, height and depth "plus a few centimeters," including room for the delivery crew's hands. The things people overlook most are the effective opening width of the front door (the real measurement inside the frame, after subtracting the hinge side that sticks out), the diagonal measurement at hallway corners, and, in an apartment building, the depth and ceiling height of the elevator car. If only the stairwell is available, the key question is whether the unit can be turned on the landing. Many stores will check the delivery route in advance, so if you are unsure, the safest way is to bring your measurement notes and ask.
Five places to measure for delivery: (1) the effective opening width of the front door (the actual size inside the frame); (2) the narrowest part of the hallway and its corners; (3) whether the unit can be turned on the stair landing; (4) the width, depth and ceiling height of the elevator car; (5) the last step or threshold before the installation spot. If even one of them is a tight fit for the unit, ask the store in advance, "Will it fit along this route?" If it will not, crane delivery or disassembly for carrying in may cost extra.
There is one more thing: the installation spot itself has conditions. A fridge cools by releasing heat from the back, sides and top, so it needs clearance for heat dissipation. Each manufacturer specifies something like "x cm on each side, x cm above," and if you squeeze the fridge in too tightly, it cools poorly and your electricity bill goes up. Recently, more models claim "flush installation" with almost no gap needed at the sides or top, but that is possible only because the design routes the heat out through the back. The clearance requirements differ from model to model, so compare the measurements of the spot where you want to put it with the gaps specified for that model before narrowing down your candidates.
What to check right after delivery, and how far the warranty goes
Among large appliances, a refrigerator is a type of product where problems are hard to spot the moment it arrives. It does not get cold right after you plug it in, and unusual noises or vibration are often noticed only after a few days of use, when you think, "this might not be normal." That is why it helps to decide in advance what to check at delivery and during the first week of use.
First, at delivery. After unpacking, look at the door surface and sides for dents, the door gasket (the rubber part) for warping, and the feet and casters for bending. Damage in transit should, as a rule, be reported "before you sign to confirm installation is complete"; if you report it later, it is hard to tell from damage caused during use, and getting help becomes difficult. Before the installers leave, it is best to open the door fully and check that the gaps on the left and right are even, and that the gasket seals tightly all the way around when the door is closed.
It is not unusual for large fridges to be sold on terms of "no returns once unpacked." Check the seller's terms before ordering to see how things are handled if the unit turns out not to fit in the installation spot (for example, who pays to carry it out again).
Telling an initial defect from a warranty issue
Symptoms such as not cooling, not making ice, or leaking may be an initial defect, but they can also be normal behavior just after power-on or a problem with the installation environment. As a rule of thumb, it is time to contact the manufacturer's support if the fridge compartment is still not cold after half a day to a day, ice has not been made for more than a full day, or the interior light does not go off when the door is closed.
Besides a one-year warranty on the unit itself, many manufacturers give a long-term warranty on the main parts of the "refrigeration cycle," such as the compressor, which is the heart of the cooling. The number of years and the covered parts differ by product, so reading the warranty section of the manual to see "how many years and which parts" will keep you from rushing to buy a replacement on your own judgment when something breaks. If you are considering the store's extended warranty, it is easier to decide with confidence once you have checked how much it overlaps with the manufacturer's warranty.
Do not decide capacity by "number of people" alone: work backward from how you live
A commonly used rule of thumb for capacity is the formula "70 L × number of family members + 100 L for staples + 70 L spare." That works out to about 310 L for two people and about 450 L for four, which is handy as a starting point. But this formula is only about average usage. The right capacity actually depends more on "your shopping and cooking style" than on "the number of people." Even for the same family of four, a household that buys a little every day and one that stocks up on weekends and cooks ahead need completely different amounts of room inside.
| Capacity range | Suited for | Good for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 150〜250 L | Living alone | Little home cooking, mostly drinks | Small freezer, not suited to cooked-ahead meals |
| 250〜350 L | 1〜2 people who cook | Freezer is reasonably usable | Can feel cramped with 4 people |
| 350〜450 L | 2〜3 people | Balanced, roomy vegetable drawer | Often fits within a 60 cm-class width |
| 450〜500 L | 4 people, bulk buyers | Large freezer, cooking ahead | Must check installation width and delivery route |
| Over 500 L | 4+ people, large families | Freezer-focused, stocking up | Watch clearance and electricity cost |
What may surprise you here is that "bigger is better" is not always true. It is true that with more room inside, cold air circulates more easily and cooling problems from overpacking are less likely. On the other hand, a larger unit takes more floor space and clearance, and uses more electricity accordingly. Running a half-empty big fridge all the time means using extra electricity for the space it has to cool. Conversely, cramming a too-small interior blocks the circulation of cold air, causes uneven cooling, and also lowers efficiency. "The fridge compartment is about 70% full, with room in the freezer for bulk purchases" is a good balance between usability and efficiency.
Another point that is easy to miss is whether you put more weight on the freezer or the vegetable drawer. If you have a lot of frozen food, bulk-bought meat and cooked-ahead meals, give priority to freezer capacity and to whether the freezer is in the middle (at an easy-to-reach height). On the other hand, if you keep plenty of leafy greens and root vegetables on hand, a large vegetable drawer and a layout you can use without crouching will help. Even with the same total capacity, the split and height of the compartments between freezer and vegetable drawer differ by manufacturer and model, so choosing a model where the compartment you open most often is at waist height makes a clear difference in daily use.
Living alone, dual-income, rebuilding the family home: the answer changes with your situation
Even within the same capacity range, the "closest to right" fridge varies a lot depending on who uses it and how. Here are the directions that tend to work, and the choices to avoid, for the typical patterns.
Living alone or on a job posting away from family
If frozen food is your mainstay, choose at least a two-door model with a separate freezer, even in a small size. The space equivalent to an ice compartment in a one-door model does not keep a stable temperature and is not suited to long-term storage of ice cream or cooked-ahead meals. Conversely, if you hardly cook, there is little point in a large-capacity model, and prioritizing extra room in your living space is easier to live with. What you want to avoid is choosing a big fridge because "I might start cooking someday" and then cooling empty shelves forever.
Households shared by several people
In a household where the door is opened often, it matters whether the structure keeps cold air from escaping from the whole interior every time. A French door model, which splits into left and right, has the advantage because you only need to open one side. Also, picture the moments when the person getting a drink and the person cooking stand there at the same time; whether there is room for people to stand side by side in front of the door is another thing to check. What you want to avoid is putting a single-door model with a large door swing into a kitchen with a narrow aisle, so that the door hits a wall or cupboard.
Low usage or limited space
For a second fridge or a bedroom, quietness is the top priority. Compare the operating noise (in dB) on the spec sheet and choose a lower number if it will be near where you sleep. Models labeled "slim" or "for narrow spaces" need less clearance, so you can bring them closer to the wall, which helps in homes with limited width.
Door type is all about how well it suits your space
Door type is not a matter of taste; it should be decided to suit the walls, aisle and kitchen traffic flow where it will stand. Get this wrong and you will be stuck with "hard to open" or "bumps into things" every day for ten years. There are three main types: single-door (right-hinged or left-hinged), the double-opening type that can open from either side, and the French door (double door) type that is the mainstream for large capacities.
| Door type | Strengths | Environments to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Single door (right/left) | Simple structure and tends to be cheaper. Common in small to medium capacities | Hard to use if the opening direction is opposite to the wall or traffic flow |
| Either-side opening (opens both ways) | You can choose the direction when you move or rearrange | Few models, and a narrow capacity range |
| French door (double door) | Needs little opening space in front, saving room. Opening one side saves energy | Needs enough wall space on both sides |
For a single-door model, the first thing to check is "whether it is right-opening or left-opening." The door opens "on the side opposite the hinge," so if the wall is on the right, you choose a left-opening door, that is, the direction where the hinge is on the wall side. Your dominant hand and the position of the sink and countertop also matter. Imagine standing in front of the fridge and ask yourself whether "opening the door with your right hand and taking out food with your left" feels natural, and you are less likely to get it wrong. If you rent and move often, choosing the either-side opening type frees you from worrying about the direction, even if the installation spot changes.
French doors have become the mainstream type for large capacities of 450 L and up. Because the doors open to the left and right from the center, their biggest advantage is that each door is small, and the opening space needed in front is shallower than with a single door. Even in a kitchen with a narrow aisle, the door is less likely to hit someone passing in front, and when you just want a drink, opening only one side keeps cold air from escaping, a quiet but useful side benefit. However, because the doors open to left and right, you need some space on the walls at both sides, and if the fridge is placed flush against a wall, the door may not open 90 degrees, making it hard to get in and out of the drawers. Check not only the installation width but also "how far the doors stick out when open."
Reading energy savings through "annual power consumption" and "inverter"
A refrigerator is one of the few appliances in the house that run nonstop, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. That is why the smart approach is to compare not just the purchase price but the total cost including ten years of electricity. The yardstick for comparison is the catalog's "annual power consumption (kWh/year)." Multiply it by your electricity unit price to estimate the yearly electricity cost. Even within the same capacity range, this figure differs by model, and picturing that difference adding up each year makes the decision easier.
What drives energy-saving performance is the inverter-controlled compressor. Older fridges kept switching between "cooling" and "off," while inverter models finely vary their running strength according to the interior conditions and usage pattern, cooling only as much as needed and only when needed. For example, they run gently late at night when the door is rarely opened and harder right after you load a lot of food. It is not unusual for the yearly electricity cost to drop noticeably when you replace a large fridge from about ten years ago with the latest energy-saving model. That is why, once you calculate including electricity, replacing can turn out cheaper than sticking with an old large fridge just because "it still cools."
How to think about long-term cost: if you cannot decide between two candidates, compare (the difference in purchase price) with (the difference in annual power consumption × electricity unit price × years of use). Even if the unit costs a little more, a more efficient model may make up the difference in electricity within a few years, and then keep saving after that. Electricity unit prices vary by region and contract, so for accuracy, use the unit price on your own bill.
The energy-saving label (multi-level rating or energy-saving standard achievement rate) you see in stores is also a guide. The idea is that more stars or a higher rate means better energy-saving performance, but note that this is a relative rating within the same capacity range. If you compare models of different capacities by stars alone, large-capacity models tend to look disadvantaged. In the end, the view closest to reality is "which one has the lowest annual power consumption within the capacity range I am choosing."
"Rated capacity" and "usable capacity": telling the catalog numbers apart
A fridge's spec sheet lists similar-looking numbers, and it is easy to think you are comparing things when you are actually looking at different ones. Here is a rundown of the terms that come up most often.
| Term | What it means and what to look at |
|---|---|
| Rated capacity (L) | The total interior volume. It is measured with the shelves and cases removed, so it does not match the amount that actually fits. This is the larger number shown in the catalog. |
| Breakdown by compartment | The split among the fridge, freezer, vegetable drawer and ice compartment. Even with the same total capacity, some models have a bigger freezer and some a smaller one; people who mostly eat frozen food should look here. |
| Annual power consumption (kWh/year) | Electricity for one year measured under JIS standard conditions. Figures measured the same way can be compared, but once the standard is revised, they cannot simply be compared with older models' figures. |
| Operating noise (dB) | The lower the number, the quieter. In a bedroom or a one-room 1K apartment, a difference of a few dB is noticeable. |
| External dimensions / required installation space | The body size and the extra room needed for heat dissipation and door opening are separate things. The catalog gives clearance requirements such as "at least x cm above, x cm at the sides." |
In stores, labels show energy-saving performance either as a standardized percentage achievement rate or as a multi-level star rating. These show only the relative position within the same capacity range, so keep in mind that comparing models of different capacities by stars alone does not mean much.
Even when it says "600 mm wide," that may not include the door handle or the hinge protrusions. When measuring the delivery route, it is safer to add a few centimeters to the body dimensions.
What problem does each maker's "freshness-keeping feature" solve?
Once capacity, doors and energy saving have narrowed your list, what finally matters is each manufacturer's proprietary freshness-keeping features. The names vary by maker, but the problems they aim at are shared, and they fall into four broad directions: "keeping fresh food longer in a chilled or near-freezing zone," "preventing dryness in the vegetable drawer to keep produce fresh," "protecting texture with quick freezing," and "holding the temperature even when the door is opened." Matching them to the foods you handle most shows which features deserve extra points.
| Direction of the feature | Problem it solves | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| High-freshness chilled room (dedicated room near freezing) | Meat and fish go bad after a few days in their packs | Households that use up bulk-bought meat and fish within a few days |
| Moisturizing vegetable drawer (keeps humidity high) | Leafy greens wilt and dry out quickly | Households that keep vegetables on hand and want them to last |
| Quick freezing | Home freezing leaves food dry or leaking liquid | Households that cook ahead or often freeze pre-seasoned food |
| Middle freezer / large freezer | Frozen food and bulk purchases will not fit | Households centered on frozen stock |
| Fresh automatic ice maker / water purification | Washing the ice tray is a chore, or the ice smells | Households that use a lot of ice in summer |
The chilled room is a dedicated space at around 0 °C, colder than the fridge compartment, and it works well when you want meat, fish and processed foods to keep their freshness for a few days without freezing. Some models also feature an even colder near-freezing zone, which suits people who want fresh food to last longer without making it as hard as seasoned food that has been frozen. The high-humidity vegetable drawer is a feature that slows wilting of leafy greens by improving airtightness or by using fine mist or humidity control. The more you stock leafy vegetables, the more clearly you will notice the effect.
Quick-freeze features make up for the weakness of weak home freezing, where food cells break down and liquid easily leaks out. The aim is to reduce the loss of texture and flavor by freezing in a short time, and satisfaction is high in households that make heavy use of freezing pre-seasoned food, freezing cooked rice and stocking meat they bought. One important point here is that more features are not automatically better. If you hardly cook or rarely use the freezer, choosing the top model with every feature will not give you benefits worth the price. A cost-effective way to narrow down is to choose a model that is strong where it counts, based on how you use your fridge: which compartment you open most and which food you put in most.
Even within the same manufacturer, some freshness features appear only on the top model, while others have trickled down to mid-range models. Last year's top-end features often spread to next year's mid-range models, so it is not unusual that you can get the feature you want on the previous generation or a mid-range model, without insisting on the latest top model. Looking at "what problem the feature solves" rather than the feature's name makes it easier to compare across generations and grades.
Judging when to replace, and when it tends to be cheaper
If you choose in a panic after the fridge breaks, you tend to compromise on both capacity and delivery. The ideal is "plan ahead at a good time once the signs appear." Signs that it is time to start thinking about replacement include uneven cooling, a back or side that is hotter than before, louder operating noise, a deteriorated door gasket causing condensation or gaps, and poor ice-making or defrosting. Especially for a large unit that is around ten years old, the energy-saving gap between generations is big, so you can take these signs as a signal to consider replacing it.
As for timing, it pays to know the model-change cycle common to appliances in general. Manufacturers tend to release new large fridges about once a year, and when a new model comes out, the stock of last year's model tends to get cheaper. If you are not set on the latest features, going for these previous-year models is the realistic option. In addition, fiscal year-end periods and big sales are times when big appliances tend to move more. Actual prices and stock vary greatly by time and store, so the sound approach is not "how much and when," but "compare across several stores during the period when previous-year models are on the market."
Where to buy matters too, as appliance stores and online shops have different characters. For a large fridge, the value lies in being able to ask for delivery, installation and even pickup of the old unit for recycling, so do not decide on price alone; compare whether they will "check the delivery route in advance" and "how installation and removal of the old unit are included in the price." If you use an online mall, what matters is whether the product page has installation service or recycling pickup options.
| Where to buy | Strengths | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Appliance store (in person) | See the actual unit; consult on the delivery route; installation and pickup handled together | Whether installation and recycling fees are included in the listed price |
| Store's online shop | In-store reassurance plus points and delivery options | Delivery dates for large items; whether installation options exist |
| General online mall | Easy to compare prices across sellers; previous-year models sometimes turn up | Whether installation/pickup services exist; shipping; seller reliability |
Compare by total cost: the cost of a fridge does not end with the unit. (Unit) + (installation fee) + (recycling fee and transport fee for the old fridge) is the real total. On top of that, point rewards and campaigns at each mall or card change what you actually pay. Reward rates and conditions change over time, so please check the latest terms on each e-commerce site and official page. The store with the cheapest unit and the store with the cheapest total often do not match.
The fridge's yearly cycle: when do new models come out, and from which capacity range?
Refrigerators do not all change over at once each year; the timing differs by capacity range. As a rough trend, new flagship large-capacity models arrive in early autumn, mid-capacity models follow, and small units for single people are replaced bit by bit throughout the year. In other words, "shortly before the old and new models in your target capacity range switch over" is when stock of the old model tends to move.
Seasonal factors cannot be ignored either. In summer, demand for repairs and replacements is concentrated, and both delivery and installation get crowded. If you start looking after it breaks in midsummer, your choices narrow to what is in stock, and the delivery date tends to be pushed back. If you can start considering while the old one still works, the range of choices is wider in periods when demand has calmed down.
What to look for when choosing a previous-year model
Yearly improvements to refrigerators center on interior layout and added sterilizing or deodorizing functions, and the basic cooling performance does not change greatly each year. So a previous-year model is a strong option. What you should check, though, is whether annual power consumption differs greatly between the old and new models, and whether the energy-saving measurement conditions are from the same generation. Since it is an appliance you will use for a long time, the difference in power consumption adds up over the years.
If you are buying along with a move, the rule is to order after you have measured the new home. A few centimeters of difference between the floor plan and the actual measurement is not unusual, and with a fridge, those few centimeters can make it not fit.
Delivery alone is not the end: what to prepare at the same time, and what can wait
A fridge is close to an appliance where you "take it out of the box, put it in place, and you are done," but there are still a few things that can trip you up on the day.
Things to prepare in advance
- Where to connect the ground wire: grounding is recommended for refrigerators. Check beforehand whether the outlet at the installation spot has a ground terminal. If it does not, separate electrical work may be needed.
- A free dedicated outlet: manufacturers advise against using extension cords or multi-plug adapters. If the outlet will be hidden behind the unit, also check that the cord is long enough to reach.
- Floor protection and leveling: on cushioned vinyl flooring or tatami, the weight can leave marks. A mat made for refrigerators both protects the floor and makes it easier to pull the unit out for cleaning later.
- Water for the ice maker: many automatic ice makers are designed for tap water, and water from a filter or mineral water is sometimes not recommended. Checking the manual's instructions first saves you from guessing.
- Arranging pickup of the old fridge: it falls under the Home Appliance Recycling Law, so disposal requires a recycling fee and arranging collection and transport. Check when ordering whether it can be picked up on the same day your new one is delivered, and you will avoid making two trips.
Things that can wait
Dividers and small trays for the interior are best bought later, after you decide what goes where, so nothing is wasted. Anti-tip straps work well as earthquake protection, but you need to find where the wall studs are, so it is fine to take care of them calmly after installation. As for deodorizers, many recent models have a deodorizing function built in, so it is not too late to buy one when odors start to bother you.
After installation: when to power on, and how to save electricity
Even after a successful delivery, there are situations where you must not plug it in right away. After the unit has been tilted in transit, the basic rule is to wait until the cooling oil in the compressor settles before powering on. The exact waiting time differs by model, so be sure to follow the manual's instructions. Choose a level, solid floor, and avoid direct sunlight and places near heat sources such as a stove or microwave. Surrounding the fridge with heat alone increases its cooling load.
For saving electricity once you start using it, the key is the contrast of "loose in the fridge, packed in the freezer." The reason lies in how cold air travels.
- Fridge compartment up to 70% fullCold air needs gaps to circulate. Packing it full causes uneven cooling and lowers efficiency.
- Pack the freezer insteadFrozen items act as ice packs for each other, so the temperature is slow to rise after the door is opened.
- Adjust the set temperature by seasonStronger in midsummer, milder in winter. Leaving it on "strong" all year tends to waste energy.
- Let hot food cool firstPutting food in while still hot raises the temperature of the whole interior and makes the fridge cool even more.
- Open and close quickly, and less oftenIf you decide a place for everything you use, you spend less time standing with the door open, hesitating.
- Do not block the clearance spaceDo not put things on the sides or top. Just keeping the specified gaps changes the cooling and the electricity bill.
The "70% full" rule for the fridge compartment is less about saving money than about keeping a path for the cold air. If you pack it with no gaps, the cold air does not reach the back, and in the end the fridge uses electricity trying to cool harder. The freezer, by contrast, is better full of frozen items, since they cool each other and quickly absorb the warm air that comes in when the door opens. Just keeping in mind "loose in the fridge, packed in the freezer" gradually changes your daily power consumption.
Plan for ten years of use: upkeep effort and slowly accumulating costs
A refrigerator keeps running with almost no effort after you buy it. That is exactly why it is hard to notice performance dropping from neglect. In fact, there is not much upkeep that really helps it last.
- Check the door gasket (every few months)If dirt or warping weakens the seal, cold air leaks and the running time gets longer. A simple check is to close the door on a thin sheet of paper and pull it gently to see whether there is resistance.
- Keep clearance at the back and sidesPushing things up against the fridge or against a wall blocks heat dissipation and raises power consumption. Brushing off dust while you clean keeps heat dissipation efficient.
- Clean the automatic ice maker's water tank and water pathWater stagnates here, so it is easily a source of odor and slime. Wash it, including the ice tray and water filter, at the intervals specified in the manual.
- Adjust how full the interior isThe fridge compartment circulates cold air better with gaps, while the freezer holds cold better when packed. Just keeping this difference in mind changes operating efficiency.
What continues to cost money
The parts that may need replacing as consumables are limited, such as the water filter for the ice maker and the gasket on the water tank. Most are replaced every few years and are not a frequent expense. What really matters is the electricity cost: the difference in annual power consumption accumulates over the years you use it. When a more efficient model sits higher in the price range, thinking about how many years to count the difference over can help you decide.
Also, many models use flammable isobutane as the refrigerant. Basic precautions such as not using aerosol cans inside the fridge and not damaging the pipes on the back are worth remembering for long and safe use.
Frequently asked questions
Can I decide capacity by the number of people alone?
The number of people is only a starting point. "70 L × people + 100 L for staples + 70 L spare" is a rough guide, but a household that buys in bulk and cooks ahead will be more comfortable with a larger unit even with the same number of people. Conversely, a household that buys a little every day can do with less. A fridge compartment that is about 70% full, with room in the freezer for bulk purchases, is a good balance between efficiency and usability.
Which is more convenient, a French door or a single door?
It depends on the installation environment. A French door has smaller doors and needs less opening space in front, and opening only one side keeps cold air from escaping, so it suits kitchens with narrow aisles and large capacities. However, it needs room on the walls at both sides. A single door has a simple structure, and if you choose a direction that suits the wall and traffic flow (hinge on the wall side), it is easy to use in medium to small capacities.
How should I choose between right-opening and left-opening?
The door opens on the side opposite the hinge, so if the wall is on the right, choose left-opening, meaning the hinge is on the wall side. Also consider the position of the sink and countertop, and your dominant hand. Imagine standing in front of it and opening the door with one hand while taking things out with the other; if that feels natural, you are less likely to get it wrong. If you move often, an either-side opening model is also an option.
When should I replace an old fridge?
Uneven cooling, heat on the side, louder operating noise, a deteriorated door gasket (condensation or gaps), and poor ice-making or defrosting are all signs to replace it. Large units used for around ten years especially have a big electricity cost gap compared with the latest energy-saving models, and if you compare including long-term electricity rather than just the purchase price, replacing can sometimes come out cheaper. If you act in a planned way before it breaks, you can choose without compromising on capacity or delivery.
How should I read the inverter and the energy-saving label?
The axis for comparison is the catalog's "annual power consumption (kWh/year)," and multiplying it by your electricity unit price gives a rough annual electricity cost. Inverter control is a mechanism that varies running strength to match usage and cuts waste. The stars or achievement rate on the energy-saving label are a relative rating within the same capacity range, so do not compare models of different capacities by stars alone; the view closest to reality is to look for the lowest power consumption within the capacity range you are choosing.
Do I need special features like a chilled room or quick freezing?
It depends on how you use it. A chilled room helps households that want meat and fish to keep for a few days without freezing, a high-humidity vegetable drawer helps those who keep leafy greens on hand, and quick freezing helps those who often freeze pre-seasoned food or cook ahead. If you hardly cook, a top model with every feature may not be worth its price. A cost-effective way to narrow down is to choose a model that is strong in the compartment you open most and the food you store most.
I am worried whether a large fridge will fit when it is delivered
Measure not just the unit's dimensions but the effective opening width of the front door, hallway corners, stair landings, elevator car dimensions and the last step, allowing "the unit plus a few centimeters." If anywhere is a tight fit, bring your measurement notes and ask the store in advance, "Will it fit along this route?" If it will not, crane delivery or disassembly for carrying in may cost extra. Also check that there is room for clearance at the installation spot.
Can I turn the power on right after installation?
After the unit has been tilted in transit, do not power it on right away; let it sit for a certain time first. This is to wait for the cooling oil in the compressor to settle, and the waiting time differs by model, so be sure to follow the manual. Install it on a level, solid floor, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Not blocking the clearance space at the sides and top also directly affects cooling and electricity cost afterward.
Are there tips for reducing electricity costs?
The basic rule is "loose in the fridge, packed in the freezer." Keep the fridge compartment to about 70% full to leave a path for cold air; in the freezer, frozen food acts as an ice pack, so packing it is more efficient. Let hot food cool before putting it in, adjust the set temperature by season, and open and close quickly by deciding a place for everything. Combined with installing away from direct sunlight and heat sources and keeping clearance, the effect adds up for an appliance that runs 24 hours a day.
How far from the wall should I place a fridge?
The requirement differs by model, and the manual lists the necessary gap for the top, sides and back. In recent years, more designs need little clearance, and some models can be placed with only a few millimeters on each side. However, room to open the door fully is needed separately, so thinking of the installation space as "body size + heat clearance + door swing range" makes mistakes less likely.
What should I watch out for when moving a fridge during a house move?
Unplug it beforehand, defrost it, drain the water and dry the interior. If it is tilted a lot during transport, refrigerant and oil can shift, so as a rule, do not lay it on its side. After installation, do not power it on right away; waiting a few hours before turning it on is said to be safer. Follow the manual for the exact waiting time for your model.
* This article is for reference only. Sale dates, point rates and campaign terms can change, so check each store's official page for the latest details.