When Are Air Conditioners Cheapest in Japan? Off-Peak Timing and the Real Installed Price
Prices, point rates and sale details in this article were checked by the mottoku editorial team against each service's official site and API (as of the last update). Always check the official sites for current prices, stock and campaign terms.
Know the AC "model year" and you'll know when to buy
Wall-mounted room air conditioners are one of those appliances where every maker releases new models at roughly the same time each year. High-end models for the next year arrive in autumn (around October–November), and entry-level lines switch over from New Year into spring. Once you understand this "model year" rhythm, you can see when last year's models hit their lowest price and when stock runs short and prices climb. Flagship series such as Mitsubishi Electric's Kirigamine (霧ヶ峰), Daikin's Urusara X (うるさらX), Panasonic's Eolia (エオリア), Hitachi's Shirokuma-kun (白くまくん) and Fujitsu General's nocria (ノクリア) all replace their whole lineup, from flagship to entry model, every year.
This matters because once the new model is out, stock of last year's model (型落ち) gets discounted. Basic heating and cooling performance doesn't change dramatically in a year, so if you don't need the latest extras, last year's flagship often satisfies more than this year's mid-range model. The catch is that "the lowest price on last year's model" and "summer peak-season deals" are completely different things. This article covers how to tell model generations apart, what each grade (high-end/mid-range/entry) includes, how to choose capacity (tatami size and kW), what standard installation and extra charges really cover, and how to time your purchase for the off-peak season, all specific to room air conditioners. Prices and discounts vary by season and store, so check the final price on each online store or shop.
Key points: High-end models launch in autumn, so last year's models get cheaper from that launch until early summer of the next year. If you need one just before the heat (June–July), pick a discounted previous-year model. If you're not in a hurry, aim for late-autumn clearance. Decide based on the total: unit + standard installation + extra piping + dedicated circuit + removal and recycling.
Why two "6 tatami" units can differ 3x in price: what the grades include
At an electronics store, air conditioners labeled "for 6 tatami" (6畳用) can differ in price by 2–3 times between the cheapest and most expensive. Plenty of shoppers find this confusing. The cooling capacity (kW) is the same, but the features packed in differ hugely by grade. Most makers build three tiers: entry-level, mid-range and high-end (flagship).
| Grade | Typical features | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Entry-level (standard) | Mainly cooling, heating and timers. Modest energy efficiency, basic presence sensing and airflow control | Rooms used briefly, bedrooms, secondary units |
| Mid-range | Better energy efficiency, plus improved internal cleaning and dehumidifying | Main rooms other than the living room, value seekers |
| High-end (flagship) | Packed with high efficiency, sensor airflow, humidifying/dehumidifying, self-cleaning and more | Living rooms used for long hours every day, people who want lower power bills |
Here are some examples of high-end-only features. Daikin's Urusara X is known for humidifying without a water tank by drawing moisture from outdoor air. Panasonic's top Eolia models offer internal and air care with "nanoe X". Mitsubishi's top Kirigamine models use the "Move Eye" infrared sensor to read where people are and how warm they feel to control airflow. Hitachi's top Shirokuma-kun models feature "freeze cleaning" (凍結洗浄), which freezes and then washes the heat exchanger. Fujitsu's nocria promotes its own airflow and sterilization systems. Entry models have almost none of these.
What matters is whether these features actually help with the way you use the AC. If tankless humidifying helps in a dry bedroom, a high-end model is worth it. But splurging on self-cleaning or advanced sensor airflow for a room you barely use makes the cost hard to recoup. The smart overall approach is to prioritize: "high-end in the living room, entry to mid-range in bedrooms and kids' rooms."
New or previous-year model? Decide by efficiency and features
"Wait for the new model, or grab last year's at a discount?" is harder with air conditioners than with other appliances, because differences in energy efficiency show up directly on your power bill. The gap between new and old comes down to two things: energy efficiency and extra features.
- Energy efficiency: The annual performance factor (APF) tends to rise a little with each model change. Air conditioners run for long hours every day, so the longer a room's AC runs, the more this gap affects your electricity bill. You can compare efficiency indicators (energy-saving standard achievement rate, APF, estimated annual electricity cost) in catalogs and on store labels.
- Extra features: Sensor airflow and self-cleaning improve with each generation, but the basic ability to cool and heat doesn't change much in a year. Last year's high-end model often beats this year's mid-range model on satisfaction.
- Where to draw the line: For a living room used long hours for many years, lean toward the new model for efficiency. For rooms used briefly or if value comes first, go with a discounted previous-year model. With the same budget, compare "last year's flagship" against "this year's mid-range" and work backward from the features you need.
Keep in mind that previous-year models are only available while stock lasts. Popular sizes and colors disappear soon after the new models launch. Holding out for a lower price until the model you wanted is gone is an especially common mistake with ACs. Decide on your target model and your maximum price in advance.
Choosing size (tatami and kW): don't miss the "concrete/wooden" split
The mistake people regret most is getting the capacity (room size) wrong. An undersized unit can't reach the set temperature in midsummer or midwinter, keeps running at full power, and ends up costing more in electricity. The "for X tatami" label in catalogs has a catch: the cooling and heating room sizes are listed separately, and the numbers also change depending on whether the building is wooden or concrete.
| Cooling capacity (approx.) | Wooden (Japanese-style room) | Concrete (Western-style room) |
|---|---|---|
| 2.2kW class | Up to about 6 tatami | Up to about 9 tatami |
| 2.8kW class | Up to about 8 tatami | Up to about 12 tatami |
| 4.0kW class | Up to about 11 tatami | Up to about 17 tatami |
| 5.6kW class | Up to about 15 tatami | Up to about 23 tatami |
These figures are only general guides, and labels differ by model. The capacity you actually need depends on the room. For rooms like the ones below, one size up from the label is the safer choice.
- Top floor, strong afternoon sun, large windows: Sunlight heats the room, so a unit sized exactly to the label often falls short in summer.
- Wooden, older building, poor insulation: Heat escapes easily, so you're likely to feel the lack of capacity especially for heating. In cold regions, choose based on heating capacity.
- Open to the kitchen, high open ceiling (吹き抜け), lots of people coming and going: The effective space is bigger, so one size up is safer.
On the other hand, choosing a bit more capacity than the exact fit means the room cools or heats faster and the unit switches to efficient low-power operation sooner once it reaches the set temperature. The result is often a quieter unit and steadier power bills. Start from the tatami label, then add up each condition that makes your room harder to cool or heat.
A studio for one and a family LDK need opposite choices
Matching the tatami size doesn't mean any AC will do. Who uses it, in which room and for how long all change the right grade and installation conditions. Here are some common scenarios.
A studio apartment, used only while sleeping
For this use, high-end self-cleaning and AI airflow don't add much. What matters is noise while you sleep and the off-timer and the lowest fan setting. In a studio, your bed is close to the indoor unit, and air blowing directly on you is uncomfortable. Check not only the catalog noise rating but also whether you can lock the airflow upward and whether there's a very low fan setting. An entry to mid-range model is plenty. In a rental, think about restoring the room at move-out and pick a model that fits neatly with the existing pipe hole and sleeve position.
A family LDK, running from morning to night
The longer the hours and the bigger the room, the more a high-end model's efficiency and strong airflow pay off. In an LDK, sunlight, kitchen heat and people moving in and out all add up. Without spare capacity, the unit struggles to get the room comfortable and ends up running at full power all the time. A machine at full power uses more electricity and makes more noise. Use the "heating, wooden" figure on the label as your baseline and you're unlikely to go wrong. In an LDK, choosing one size up often ends up quieter and cheaper. This is also the range where 200V models come into play, so check early whether your breaker panel has spare capacity.
Rooms used rarely, or with little space for the unit
Putting a high-end unit in a guest room, a near-storage room or a room used a few times a year makes the cost hard to recoup. Efficiency gains add up in proportion to running time, so the less a room is used, the more sense a previous-year entry model makes. If installation space is tight, the unit's height and side clearance become important. High-end models have bigger heat exchangers, so they tend to be thicker and taller, and may not fit because they hit a curtain rail, a beam or a lowered ceiling section. In rooms with little space above the window, looking for series sold as slim or compact gives you more options.
In homes running several units at once (kids' rooms, a study, etc.), check your contracted amperage (契約アンペア) limit too. With more units, it's the whole household's combined usage, not just one AC, that pushes the breaker toward its limit.
The "unit price" trap: what the installed total really includes
Room AC prices often show just the unit, and installation costs get added before you can actually use it. To avoid the classic story where a cheap-looking unit piles up extra charges until it costs the same as anywhere else, always compare the total including installation (工事込み総額) from the start. Here's what makes up that total.
| Cost item | What it covers | How it's charged |
|---|---|---|
| Unit price | The air conditioner itself | Varies a lot by grade and size |
| Standard installation | About 4m of piping, the wall hole and a normal outdoor-unit setup | Sometimes included in "installation included" plans |
| Extra piping and decorative covers | Longer piping, covers that tidy up the look | Added per meter or per part |
| Dedicated outlet / voltage change | New dedicated circuit, switching between 100V and 200V | Added if electrical work is needed |
| Special outdoor-unit installation | On the roof, wall brackets, two-tier stacking, ceiling-hung on balconies (公団吊り), etc. | Varies a lot by method |
| Removal and recycling | Taking down the old AC and the home appliance recycling fee | Applies when replacing a unit |
The part people most often miss is the power supply. Larger units (around 4.0kW and up) mostly run on 200V. If your outlet is 100V, or there's no dedicated AC circuit at all, you'll need extra electrical work. This cost doesn't appear in the unit price. More shops on online malls now offer "standard installation included," but what counts as "standard" (pipe length, decorative covers, voltage changes) differs from store to store. Before ordering, check the standard scope, add in any extras your room is likely to need, and then compare several totals side by side.
5 things to measure before you order: (1) The width and height of the wall for the indoor unit, and whether there's a pipe hole (sleeve). (2) Space for the outdoor unit and its distance from the indoor unit (longer piping costs more). (3) The outlet shape and voltage (100V/200V), and whether it's a dedicated AC circuit. (4) In a rental, whether drilling or placing the outdoor unit needs permission from the management company or landlord. (5) If replacing, who will remove and take back the old unit for recycling. Finding these out on installation day leads to extra charges or a postponed installation.
What matters after you buy: filter cleaning, internal drying and the outdoor unit
With an air conditioner, the spending doesn't end with the unit and installation. Over the next ten-plus years, electricity and upkeep add up to more. Keeping that in mind changes how you choose a model.
"Self-cleaning" doesn't mean you can ignore the filter
Self-cleaning brushes dust off the filter and either stores it in a dust box or blows it outside. It prevents a clogged filter, but dirt on the heat exchanger (aluminum fins) and the blower fan isn't covered. Those parts are the main cause of musty smells, so plan on a disassembly cleaning every few years even with self-cleaning. Models with self-cleaning also have more internal parts, which makes cleaning harder and means a professional cleaning takes longer. It's more accurate to think of it as "a feature that cuts how often you clean the filter," not "a feature that eliminates cleaning."
Make internal drying a habit after use
Right after cooling or dehumidifying, the heat exchanger is wet with condensation. Stopping in that state lets mold grow, so turn on the internal clean (internal drying) mode that most models have. Some high-end models do this automatically, but entry models may be left on manual. It's worth opening the relevant page of the manual right after installation.
The outdoor unit affects your power bill
The outdoor unit is surprisingly easy to overlook. Putting things in front of the vent, boxing it in, or letting direct sunlight heat it up all lower heat-exchange efficiency and increase the power needed to reach the same room temperature. Keep the front as clear as possible and don't block airflow. If you add a sunshade, make sure it doesn't cover the vent. If the end of the drain hose gets clogged with dirt or dust, water can drip from the indoor unit, so check the tip once a year.
Setting the fan to "Auto" often saves more power than lowering the set temperature. Fixing the fan on low tends to make the room take longer to cool, which means longer running time.
Consumables and parts availability
Air conditioners have few everyday consumables, but remote batteries, replacement deodorizing and air filters, and dust box parts for self-cleaning models may need replacing. Makers set a retention period for repair parts for each product, and after it ends, repairs may no longer be possible. If you plan to use the unit for a long time, check what an extended warranty covers when you buy (for example, whether refrigerant leaks and the outdoor unit are included).
Buy in the off-peak season: when prices drop and when it's busy
Many people buy an AC in a panic when theirs breaks in midsummer, but that's the worst moment: prices stay high and installation slots are hardest to get. Prices and installation availability track seasonal demand closely, so if you can plan ahead, aim for the off-peak season.
| Season | Price and stock | Installation availability | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Late autumn to just after New Year | After high-end models launch, last year's models get discounted | Easy to book | ★★★★★ |
| Spring (before the new school/work year) | Entry models switch to the new generation; moving season drives demand | Often busy | ★★★ |
| Early summer (June–July, before the heat) | Previous-year stock is discounted, right before ACs become essential | Fairly easy to book | ★★★★ |
| Midsummer (heat wave season) | High demand, higher prices, popular models in short supply | Hard to book, installation delayed | ★ |
| Early autumn (after summer demand) | Sometimes clearance of summer stock | Easy to book | ★★★★ |
To sum up: if the lowest price on last year's model is your top priority, buy from late autumn to just after New Year. The new high-end models are all out, last year's flagships drop sharply, and installers have open slots. If you want it this summer but don't want to rush, go for early summer (June–July), just before ACs become essential. Discounted previous-year models are still around, and installers aren't as busy as in midsummer. As a rule, avoid the peak of the heat. Prices are high, popular sizes and colors run short, and even if you can order, installation may be weeks away. Installers are also busy during the spring moving season, so if you know you'll need one, book early.
If you suspect your current AC won't make it through this year, the best way to save is to plan ahead and shop during the off-peak season rather than waiting for it to break. An emergency purchase in midsummer puts you at a disadvantage on price, stock and installation.
Online stores vs. electronics stores: which to use for an AC
An air conditioner is a large appliance that comes with installation, so choosing where to buy based only on the unit price can backfire. Think about the balance between the real total cost and peace of mind, including unit price, point rewards, installation quality and removal of your old unit.
- Settle on the model number firstDecide the series, grade, capacity (kW) and model-year generation. Then you can accurately compare the total for the same model across stores. If you're vague about the model number, you may end up comparing a look-alike from a different grade.
- Line up installed totals side by sideCompare the unit + standard installation + any extras your room likely needs (longer piping, decorative covers, voltage change, removal and recycling). Online stores make the real price after point rewards easy to see, while electronics stores make it easy to arrange installation and take-back in one go. Each has pros and cons.
- Read the scope of "standard installation"Even with the same "installation included," the pipe length and whether covers are included differ by store. Anything outside the scope is added on the day, so check what's standard and what costs extra before ordering.
- Check the latest rewards and perks on each official sitePoint-reward rates, sale conditions and installation campaigns change with the season. Don't trust old numbers stated as fact. Check each online store's or shop's official listing right before you buy.
- Schedule installation and removal togetherTo avoid "the unit arrived but installation is weeks away," lock in the installation date when you order, and if you're replacing a unit, the removal date for the old one too. This is where things get most backed up during the heat.
Roughly speaking, if your model number is clear and your room's installation is simple, buying online works well because you can compare the real price after rewards side by side. If several conditions apply, such as a special outdoor-unit setup, electrical work or wanting the old unit taken away, the reassurance of an electronics store that handles installation and take-back together pays off. Either way, the rule is to put everything on the same footing, the installed total, before deciding.
Avoid "I bought it, then found out it can't be installed": common sticking points
An air conditioner isn't ready when you buy it. It only works once it's installed, which is why most problems surface on installation day. Here are the common patterns, sorted by cause.
The power doesn't match: 100V vs. 200V, and dedicated circuits
Many models for large rooms run on 200V, and if your outlet is still 100V, you'll need a voltage change. If it can be switched at the breaker panel, it's fairly simple, but if there's no dedicated circuit for that AC at all, wiring has to be run from the breaker panel. This tends to happen in older homes and rooms where an AC was added later. Taking photos of the outlet shape (the prongs are oriented differently for 100V and 200V) and checking whether the panel has a breaker labeled for the AC before you apply will speed things up.
Pipe holes and outdoor-unit placement add extra work
If there's no hole, one has to be drilled, and reinforced concrete or ALC walls take more work than ordinary wooden walls. The outdoor unit's location can also be tricky: hanging it on a balcony railing, putting it on the roof or stacking it in two tiers all need extra parts and labor. And if the indoor and outdoor units are far apart, the piping must be extended. You can tell whether you'll exceed the pipe length included in standard installation by actually measuring from the planned indoor-unit spot to the outdoor-unit location beforehand.
"Buy the unit now, install later" often doesn't work
You secure a unit during the off-peak season, then busy season starts and installation is weeks away. This often happens in midsummer or midwinter. It's safer to book installation along with the unit, or at least check the installer's availability before finalizing the unit. Also, disposal of the old AC falls under the Home Appliance Recycling Law (家電リサイクル法), with a recycling fee and collection and transport costs. If you assume "they'll surely take it" and don't arrange it, the old unit will be left behind on the day.
Downsizing and ending up with a unit that "doesn't work"
Choosing one size smaller to save money is another classic mistake. Especially in rooms on the top floor, facing west, with high ceilings or connected to an open ceiling space, the labeled size may not be enough. An undersized unit always runs at full power, so it loses on both quietness and electricity cost. When in doubt, go up in capacity. With air conditioners, this is a fairly clear trend.
A removed air conditioner still contains refrigerant. Releasing it into the air without recovering it goes against the purpose of the Fluorocarbons Emission Control Law (フロン排出抑制法). Don't remove it yourself or have a friend do it. Ask a qualified installer to handle it, starting with the pump-down.
Safe installation and disposal: don't do this your own way
An air conditioner isn't finished when you buy the unit. It's an appliance that needs professional work to install and remove. Cutting corners here becomes a safety and legal issue, not just a cost issue.
- Use a qualified installer: Refrigerant pipe connection, vacuuming the lines, securing the outdoor unit and electrical work all require expertise. Doing it yourself risks refrigerant (gas) leaks, water leaks, the outdoor unit falling and electric shock, and the unit won't perform properly. Buying the unit alone doesn't get it installed, so arrange installation together with the purchase.
- Check the power and circuit: For 200V models or models needing a dedicated circuit, check the outlet shape, voltage and circuit beforehand. If they don't match, electrical work gets added on the day or installation may be called off altogether.
- Old ACs fall under the Home Appliance Recycling Law: You can't simply put them out as oversized garbage. A recycling fee and a collection and transport fee apply, and when replacing a unit, the store or installer can often remove and take back the old one. Budget for this as part of the total from the start.
- Get permission first in a rental: Drilling the wall, routing pipes and where the outdoor unit goes may need permission from the management company or landlord. Checking in advance, including how restoring the room at move-out will be handled, prevents trouble. If an AC that came with the apartment breaks, contact the management company first.
Before you hit "order," check in this order
With an air conditioner, looking at the product page isn't enough. Part of the decision depends on the room itself. Working through the list from the top keeps backtracking to a minimum.
- Write down the room's conditionsRoom size in tatami, construction (wooden or concrete), floor, direction it faces, ceiling height, open ceiling or not. Get this wrong and you'll misread the size label and end up with an undersized unit stuck running at full power.
- Look at the outletVoltage (100V or 200V), prong shape, and whether the breaker panel has a dedicated AC breaker. If they don't match, electrical work gets added on the day, stretching both the schedule and the cost.
- Measure the installation spaceAt the planned indoor-unit spot: clearance to the ceiling, side clearance, and conflicts with the curtain rail. High-end models tend to be thicker and taller, so choosing without checking dimensions can mean it physically won't fit.
- Decide the outdoor-unit location and pipe routeWhere it goes, its distance from the indoor unit, and the position and direction of the existing pipe hole. Exceeding the standard pipe length adds extension fees, and an unusual location adds mounting-stand fees.
- Check the end of the model number on the product pageModel numbers change by year even within the same series. If it's an older year, check whether the efficiency and feature gap is acceptable and whether it's in-store stock only. Miss this and you may get an old model thinking it's new, or the other way around.
- Open the installation cost breakdownWhat's included in standard installation and what costs extra: drilling, decorative covers, pipe extension, voltage change, work at height. Skip this and the final bill can differ a lot from the listed unit price.
- Request pickup of the old unitIt's covered by the Home Appliance Recycling Law, so the recycling fee and collection and transport must be arranged. If you don't request it at the same time, the removed unit stays in your room.
- Lock in an installation dateIn busy season, having the unit doesn't mean it can be installed. Confirming the installation date before finalizing the unit avoids a period where you own an AC you can't use.
| What to check | What happens if you miss it |
| Room size by construction (wooden/concrete) | Underpowered, doesn't cool, higher power bills |
| Voltage and dedicated circuit | Electrical work added on the day, schedule delayed |
| Indoor-unit height and side clearance | Hits the curtain rail or a beam and can't be installed |
| Pipe length and outdoor-unit setup | Extra fees for extension or a mounting stand |
| Scope of standard installation | Total differs from what you expected |
| Recycling arrangements | Old unit isn't taken away and stays behind |
Before applying, take smartphone photos of four places: the outlet, the breaker panel, the pipe hole and the outdoor-unit spot. That way, pre-checks with the store or installer can be done in one go. Photos alone let them estimate any extra work on the day quite accurately.
FAQ
When do new air conditioner models come out, and when do older models get cheaper?
Timing varies by maker and model, but high-end (flagship) models for the next year usually come out around autumn, and entry-level lines tend to switch over between New Year and spring. Previous-year models get cheaper from late autumn to early summer of the next year, once the new lineup is complete. Basic heating and cooling performance changes little in a year, so if you don't need the newest features, a previous-year model is a strong choice. Check each online store or shop for actual prices.
Why do air conditioners all labeled "6 tatami" have such different prices?
Even with the same cooling capacity (kW), the features packed in differ by grade (entry-level/mid-range/high-end). High-end models add high efficiency, sensor-controlled airflow, internal self-cleaning, tankless humidifying and more, while entry models skip almost all of these. To avoid waste, use a high-end unit in a living room that runs long hours every day, and an entry or mid-range unit in bedrooms or kids' rooms used briefly.
How do I choose the size? Can I trust the "for X tatami" label?
The label is only a guide. The recommended room size changes with wooden vs. concrete construction and with cooling vs. heating. Rooms with conditions that make them harder to cool or heat (top floor, strong afternoon sun, large windows, poor insulation, connected rooms) are safer with one size up. An undersized unit keeps running at full power and tends to raise your power bill. A slightly larger size often reaches the set temperature faster and switches to energy-saving operation sooner.
If it says "installation included," will there be no extra charges?
Not always. What "standard installation" covers (pipe length, decorative covers, how voltage changes are handled, etc.) varies by store. Longer piping, special outdoor-unit setups, and switching to 200V or adding a dedicated circuit often cost extra. Check the standard scope before ordering, add any items your room is likely to need, and compare installed totals.
Do larger air conditioners really need 200V? Will I need electrical work?
Most units of about 4.0kW or more run on 200V. If your current outlet is 100V or there's no dedicated AC circuit, extra electrical work will be needed. This cost doesn't appear in the unit price, so check the outlet shape, voltage and circuit in advance. In a rental, changing the wiring may also need permission.
What should I do if my AC breaks in midsummer?
Demand peaks in midsummer, and even if you can order, installation may take several weeks. As a stopgap, the practical approach is to get by with fans, circulators and cooling bedding while you look for the fastest installation option. Be very careful about heatstroke: drink water often and rest somewhere cool. If possible, the safest plan is to buy ahead during the off-peak season before it breaks.
Can I install an air conditioner myself?
We don't recommend it. Connecting refrigerant pipes, vacuuming the lines, securing the outdoor unit and electrical work require expertise, and there are risks of refrigerant leaks, water leaks, falling units and electric shock. The unit also won't perform properly. Always use a qualified installer, and arrange installation when you buy. Buying the unit alone is useless until it's installed.
What should I watch for when installing an AC in a rental?
Drilling holes, routing pipes and placing the outdoor unit may need permission from the management company or landlord. Checking in advance, including how restoring the room at move-out will be handled, prevents trouble. If an AC that came with the apartment breaks, contact the management company first before arranging anything yourself. Permission may also be required if electrical work is involved.
How do I dispose of an old air conditioner, and what does it cost?
Air conditioners are covered by the Home Appliance Recycling Law and can't be put out as oversized garbage. A recycling fee and a collection and transport fee apply. When replacing a unit, the store or installer can often remove and take back the old one, so it's easiest to arrange it together with buying and installing the new one. Include removal and recycling fees in the total cost of replacement from the start.
When moving, should I take my current air conditioner with me or buy a new one?
Moving a unit costs money for removal, transport and reinstallation, and the piping is usually replaced. With an older unit, you pay that cost for a short remaining lifespan and worse energy efficiency than current models. A practical rule: move it if it's only a few years old and in good shape, and consider replacing it if it's around ten years old or more.
Can I install an air conditioner myself in a rental apartment?
Making new pipe holes, drilling walls or securing an outdoor unit counts as altering the building, so you need prior permission from the management company or landlord. It's often allowed if there's an existing hole and a dedicated outlet and everything can be restored at move-out, but drilling without permission can leave you paying restoration costs. Check your contract and ask in writing.
Which costs less to run: cooling or dehumidifying?
It depends on the unit's dehumidifying method. Weak-cooling dehumidification lowers the temperature as it dries the air and uses about as much power as cooling. Reheat dehumidification warms the cooled air back up and uses more power for that reheating. Reheat feels better on chilly rainy-season days, but if you want to keep power use down, cooling at a higher set temperature is usually the better choice.
* This article is for reference only. Sale dates, point rates and campaign terms can change, so check each store's official page for the latest details.