How to Choose a Home Tool Set (Screwdrivers and DIY Basics) | By Use, Quality, and Storage
Prices, point rates and sale details in this article were checked by the mottoku editorial team against each service's official site and API (as of the last update). Always check the official sites for current prices, stock and campaign terms.
Don't Be Fooled by the “XX-Piece Set” Number
When choosing a home tool set, the first thing that catches your eye is the piece count: “46 pieces,” “128 pieces.” A bigger number feels like a better deal, but look closely at what is inside and actual use is very lopsided. Most of the count comes from bits (screwdriver tips) and sockets (push-on heads). They are handy, but what people really pick up day to day at home is one or two Phillips screwdrivers, a few hex keys, pliers or cutting nippers, a tape measure, and a utility knife. Even in a set of more than 100 pieces, over half tends to sit asleep in a drawer.
In other words, what matters is not the total count but “whether the set includes tools you can actually use for what you do.” If your main jobs are assembling furniture and retightening screws, all you need is a good screwdriver, hex keys that fit the sizes your furniture specifies, and storage to keep them together. If you are going further into building shelves or woodworking, how you add a saw or power tools matters more than the piece count. Narrow your use down to one or two things first, then look for a set that fits without excess or shortage, and you will waste less and fail less.
The short version: for the “every household needs this” jobs such as assembling furniture, tightening screws, and opening battery covers, a basic set with a storage case that includes Phillips/flathead screwdrivers (with assorted bits) + hex keys + pliers or nippers + a tape measure + a utility knife covers most things. You start wanting a power driver when you often do “assemblies with lots of screws.” Put the quality of the few tools you use most ahead of a high piece count. As a rough guide, a manual-centered basic set runs in the low thousands of yen, and a comprehensive set with a power driver or many pieces starts from around 10,000 yen (varies by time and shop).
A Set Is Made or Broken by Its Screwdrivers
The screwdriver is by far the tool you hold most in a set. If it is poor, the set becomes “unusable” no matter how many pieces it has. There are several things to judge by.
Does the tip fit the screw snugly?
Most screws in Japanese furniture and appliances are JIS-standard Phillips (cross), and the one you use most is #2 (medium). In cheap sets the tip accuracy is loose, and it wobbles slightly when put into the screw recess. If you apply force like that, the cross slot on the screw gets chewed up, known as “stripping (nameru in Japanese),” and the screw will not turn and, at worst, cannot be removed. Rescuing a stripped screw is hard for a beginner, and this is the biggest dividing line when choosing tools. Tips with sharp edges and solid surface treatment (such as black-point coating or magnetic tips) tend to bite the slot well and are less likely to strip.
Shaft hardness and handle
If the shaft is soft, the tip twists and deforms on a tight screw. Products that state a hardness-focused material such as chrome vanadium steel (CR-V) are said to last longer than cheap iron ones. For the handle, a thick, non-slip rubber grip makes it easier to apply force and easier to turn even for people with small hands. If the set includes a through-shaft screwdriver (the shaft runs through the handle so you can tap the end with a hammer), which helps loosen tight screws, or a ratchet type that turns in tight spaces, it will rescue you from quite a few household “now what?” moments.
Don't force a screw that is starting to strip: if you feel the slot getting shallow, do not keep turning with brute force. The basic approach is to press the screwdriver straight down from directly above, hard, and turn slowly. Putting it in at an angle strips the screw all at once. Emergency tricks exist, such as wedging a rubber band into the slot for grip or trying one size up, but a fully stripped screw may need a dedicated screw-extractor bit. Using a screwdriver whose tip fits from the start is, in the end, the shortest path.
Bits, Hex Keys, Sockets: Size Is Everything
The biggest reason for “I own it but can't use it” with tool sets is a size mismatch. Screws and bolts come in standardized shapes and sizes, and if you miss that, no number of pieces will help. Here are the points where home users most often trip up.
| Type | Main home use | Sizes worth having |
|---|---|---|
| Phillips bits (cross) | Screws in furniture and appliances in general | #1 (small) and #2 (medium) are the mainstays. #0 or precision sizes for eyeglasses and battery covers |
| Flathead bits (slotted) | Old screws, prying open | One medium size is often enough |
| Hex keys (Allen keys) | Assembled furniture, bicycles | Metric, about 2 to 8 mm. For furniture, as a spare when the supplied key is lost |
| Torx (star) | Some appliances and electronics | Handy but not essential. Only for people who have something that needs it |
| Sockets (push-on heads) | Tightening bolts and nuts | Occasional DIY or furniture reinforcement at home. Tends to just pad the count |
Mail-Order Furniture and Hex Keys
Assembled furniture from online shops or IKEA-style brands is often joined with hex bolts, and a small hex key is usually included. But that supplied key is short, hard to put force on, and easy to lose. An L-shaped key that is easy to turn by hand, or a screwdriver-style hex with swappable bits, makes assembly much easier. Furniture sizes are basically metric (mm), so when choosing a set, check whether it includes metric hex keys (occasionally imported products use inches, and a mismatched key will not turn).
A Group of Precision Screwdrivers
Eyeglass arms, battery covers on remotes and toys, small screws on game consoles: a regular #2 is too big for these. A set that includes a few precision screwdrivers of #0 or smaller means you don't need to buy extras for these fine jobs. Everyday “small troubles” surprisingly often happen at this size, so it is a hidden criterion when choosing a basic set.
Should You Add Power, or Is Manual Enough?
Many people are drawn to sets “with an electric screwdriver,” but not everyone needs one. The decision comes down to how many screws you tighten and how often.
If you often buy large pieces of furniture online or repeatedly buy assembly-type racks, an electric screwdriver makes life dramatically easier. Tightening dozens of screws by hand hurts your wrist, but with power it is one press of a button. Assembly time also feels cut by more than half. On the other hand, if your use is “retightening screws a few times a year” or “opening battery covers,” power is overkill, and the hassle of charging and the storage space become the burden. One good manual screwdriver is enough.
Rechargeable vs. battery-powered
Sets with power tools come in rechargeable (built-in battery) and dry-cell battery types. Rechargeable ones have power and suit continuous work, but they need charging before use, and leaving them unused for a long time can weaken the battery through over-discharge. Dry-cell types work right after you put batteries in and suit occasional jobs. The tip for not going wrong is to decide by frequency: “rechargeable if you assemble often; dry-cell or manual if only rarely.” For home assembly, you do not need a full-fledged “impact driver” that drives screws with strong torque; an electric screwdriver with gentler torque is often easier to handle and less likely to strip screws.
Power tool safety: electric screwdrivers and drills are dangerous if hands, hair, or clothing get caught in the rotating part. When not in use, switch off the power and remove the tip bit, and store rechargeable batteries away from heat and water. A model with a torque adjustment (clutch) to prevent overtightening can help avoid cracked furniture or stripped screws caused by tightening too far.
Home-Center Starter Set, Toolmaker Premium Set, or Individual Pieces: Which Is Right?
When you start considering a tool set, three options usually collide: the starter set with a high piece count seen at home centers and online shops, the premium set from a specialist toolmaker with a modest piece count, and buying individual tools one at a time as needed. All of them work as “household” tools, but the people they suit are clearly different.
A starter set suits “people who haven't decided what they'll do yet”
Assembling furniture, installing a curtain rail, adjusting a bicycle saddle, opening battery covers. While you can't tell what you will be doing, a starter-class set that includes Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, hex keys, pliers, an adjustable wrench, and a tape measure ends up getting the most use. The weakness of this class is material and precision, showing up in things like screwdriver tips that are loose and strip screw heads easily, or soft hex keys whose corners round off. But for someone who touches tools only a few times a year, there are not many situations where that difference causes trouble.
A premium set pays off for “people who turn the same screws again and again”
A toolmaker's premium set cuts the piece count and puts the effort into each tool: screwdriver tip shape, grip thickness, the number of teeth in the ratchet mechanism. It pays off for people who repeatedly turn screws of the same standard, such as those who maintain their own bicycle, rearrange furniture often, or tinker with mechanical things. When the tip bites into the screw recess properly, it turns without slipping even when you push hard, and as a result the screw head is not damaged. Conversely, if someone who opens the toolbox once a year buys a premium set, the tools are forgotten before the quality is ever felt.
Individual pieces are the rational choice for “people whose sizes are fixed”
If the use is limited to a bicycle, or to maintenance of one particular device, buying just the sizes you need individually is less wasteful. Hex keys for a bicycle cluster around 4 mm, 5 mm, and 6 mm, and for precision devices a few precision screwdrivers may be all you need. The biggest weakness of individual pieces, however, is that “work stops when you hit a size you don't have,” and it tends to turn into starting a job on a day off and then running out to buy more.
| Option | Suits | Where it tends to trip you up |
| High-count starter set | Use not decided / a few times a year | Loose screwdriver tips and hex key material |
| Toolmaker premium set | Repeating the same work / jobs that need force | Fewer pieces, so unexpected sizes must be bought separately |
| Individual pieces | The sizes you use are fixed | Work stops on a size you don't own |
| Power + manual together | Lots of furniture assembly or pilot holes | Fine screws and precision work still need manual |
Where Renting Makes Sense
Some home centers lend out power tools. For tools like an impact driver or hammer drill, which are too big to buy for a one-time job, renting can be enough. However, what tends to be available for rent is the power-tool side, and hand tools such as screwdrivers and hex keys are basically meant to be owned. Dividing it as “rent the big stuff, own the hand-turned stuff” keeps your toolbox from swelling needlessly.
If you are unsure, a realistic approach is to own one starter-class set and then buy a premium replacement only for the sizes where you actually stripped a screw or could not turn one. You cannot know where you will get stuck until you use the tools, and buying a premium set in advance often just adds tools you never use.
Storage Cases Differ in Usability
It is unglamorous, but the storage case greatly affects satisfaction over the long term. Loose tools tend to lead to “where is that screwdriver?” when you need them. If they are gathered in a case, you can take out what you need quickly, and since each has a set place to return to after work, they are less likely to go missing.
- Die-cut storage that shows at a glance what is missing: with recesses cut to the shape of each tool, you can see immediately which one is absent, and tidying up becomes a habit.
- A portable size and handle: if you will carry it around the house, a weight you can hold in one hand and a handle that is easy to grip quietly matter. A case that is too heavy and large ends up left out all the time.
- Lid latches and hinges: cheap plastic cases have weak latches and hinges, and may pop open while being carried and spill the contents. This is worth checking in photos from real-world reviews.
- Bit retention: small bits roll away and go missing easily. Check whether they are held by magnets or firm insertion holes.
Between a set with “a modest piece count but a well-organized case” and one with “a high piece count but loosely scattered contents,” the former is often more satisfying in daily use.
Reading Dimensions and Workspace So “The Tool Fits but Won't Go In” Doesn't Happen
A surprisingly common stumbling block with tool sets is that the bit size matches but it physically can't reach the spot. Screw standard compatibility can be checked on the product page, but almost nothing is written about working space. You need to look at that yourself before buying.
Screwdriver length is decided by “does it fit in,” not “can it turn”
Behind the washing machine, under the sink, inside the TV stand, around desk legs. The places in a home where you turn screws are usually in the shadow of something. A longer screwdriver makes it easier to apply force, but if there is not enough depth between you and the wall to stand the shaft up, it won't go in. Conversely, stubby types (extremely short shafts) fit in tight spots, but the grip is small and it is hard to apply torque. Whether a set includes both or only one can only be learned from the item list, not from the piece count.
A ratchet handle's bottleneck is its swing angle
A ratchet mechanism lets you turn a screw by swinging the handle a little and returning it. The angle advanced per swing is determined by the number of teeth, and more teeth lets you advance with a narrower swing. In places where your hand can't swing wide, such as the gap between a wall and furniture or beside a pipe, this swing-angle margin is exactly what decides whether you can work. If the product description states the tooth count, it is likely designed with tight-space use in mind.
For sets with power tools, look at the dimensions while it turns
For an electric screwdriver, the real required dimension is not just the body length but the full length with a bit inserted at the tip. Adding a bit holder or socket adapter makes it longer still. If you have a screw in an inner corner of a piece of furniture in mind, try adding body length plus bit length to see how many millimeters it comes to. You also need space for the thickness of your hand when gripping.
- Decide on your tightest spotPick one place in your home where you want to turn a screw and measure the depth with a tape measure. Behind the washing machine or under the sink are likely candidates.
- Check the screw head standardIs it Phillips, hex socket, or Torx (star)? On appliances and bicycles, hex sockets and stars can be mixed, and a Phillips-only set cannot open them.
- Calculate the length you needSubtract the full length of the screwdriver, or bit plus holder, from the depth available in front of you, and see whether room is left for your hand.
- Measure where the storage case will goWill the case's outer dimensions fit the height and depth of the shelf in your entryway storage or closet? Look not only at the thickness when closed but also at the area needed when open, and you won't be stuck when using it.
Case Dimensions Can Also Get Stuck on the Route You Carry It
Hard-case types protect well but tend to be large. “I bought it thinking it would fit the entryway shelf, but it won't close” really does happen often, and the outer dimensions on the product page are mostly for the closed state. They may not include protruding latches or handles, so if you plan to put it on a shelf with only millimeters to spare, it is safer to allow some margin.
The insertion part of a bit (the shank) is widely a 6.35 mm hex shaft, but not every electric screwdriver is the same. If you plan to combine your existing power driver with bits bought later, checking the shank shape listed beforehand will avoid the situation where it won't fit after it arrives.
Where and When Is It Cheaper to Buy?
A tool set is less a daily necessity than a “nice to have for peace of mind,” so if you're not in a hurry, you have room to choose your timing. Knowing the character of each place to buy helps you stock up without waste.
The strengths of home centers and online shops
The advantage of a home center is that you can hold the actual screwdriver. As noted earlier, a set is made or broken by how the screwdriver feels, so being able to check grip thickness and shaft sturdiness is a big plus. Some stores also let you consult staff about your use. Online shopping, on the other hand, lets you read real-use complaints in reviews, such as “the tip stripped right away” or “the case latch is weak.” Buyers' voices make up for the hits and misses you can't tell from the piece count. The ideal is to use both: “check the feel in the store, and compare reviews and prices online.”
Good timing and stacking points
Discounts and points tend to pile up during the new-life season (February to April), when demand for moving and furniture assembly peaks, on home-center member days and clearance sales, and during online retailers' big sale periods (shopping marathons, Prime-type sales, and so on). Because tool sets do not lose much performance when a model is superseded, older models and outlet items can also be good targets.
Stacking point rewards: when buying online, adding each mall's or card's point-reward days on top of the sale discounts can lower your real cost. However, reward rates, caps, and whether entry is required change with each campaign, so check the conditions on each official page before buying. It is a good idea to register several candidates as favorites and compare them when prices or points change. Even the same “XX-piece set” tends to vary in price by store, so take your time and compare several shops.
Chipped Tip, Cracked Case: How Far Does a Tool Set Warranty Go?
“Broken” covers a wide range for tool sets, and what is covered by a warranty and what is not is clearly divided. Checking on the day it arrives will save you trouble later.
What tends to be accepted as initial defect, and what doesn't
Problems you can see when opening the box are relatively easy to raise for an exchange. Examples are a ratchet that slips, a stuck moving part, a cracked case hinge, or a listed item that is not included. Because a tool set has so many pieces, missing items can structurally occur. When it arrives, match the die-cut cutouts on the backing card against the contents and check for empty spaces.
On the other hand, what is hard to get accepted is wear and chipping after use. A rounded screwdriver tip, a hex key with rounded corners, or a snapped bit are generally judged as “consumable wear.” Bits in particular chip easily if you apply force at an angle to the screw or push them into a screw that is the wrong size. Assume that getting these replaced under warranty is difficult.
For sets with power tools, read the battery terms first
For sets that include an electric screwdriver, the warranty period may be set separately for the body and the battery. A lithium-ion battery is a consumable that loses capacity as it is charged and discharged repeatedly, and the performance decline itself is usually outside the warranty. Conversely, symptoms such as not charging at all right after arrival, or not working even after charging for the specified time, are likely to count as an initial defect, so we recommend that once opened, you run it through one full charge soon and check that it works. The worst case is leaving it in the box for a while and finding out on the day you need it that it doesn't work.
If a lithium-ion battery swells, heats up, or smells odd, stop using it. Also, under most local waste classifications it cannot be put out as ordinary trash and must be disposed of by the designated method, such as the collection boxes at participating stores. Checking how your area handles it before buying will make things easier later.
If You May Return It, Be Careful How You Open It
Types fixed in a blister pack or on a backing card may not go back the way they were once removed. If an online shop's return terms require “unopened and unused,” this could put the item outside the scope right at that point. If you aren't sure the size fits, check the outer box labeling and the item list first, then take out the contents, and that order keeps your options open.
What to Have Ready When You Contact Support
- Order number or a record showing the purchase
- The set's model number (often printed on the back of the case or on the backing card)
- A description of the situation showing the condition of the defect: which screw you used it on and how it failed to work
- For missing items, a state in which the empty spaces on the backing card can be seen
When the seller and the manufacturer are different, first confirm which one is the point of contact. For near-no-brand parallel imports, the manufacturer may not have a Japanese-language contact, and in that case the seller's handling is effectively the warranty. Because tools are used for a long time, whether this contact exists can matter more than the difference in price range.
Blades, Wall Holes, and Rentals: What to Know Before Use
A tool set includes blades such as utility knives and nippers, and pointed or heavy items such as screwdrivers and hammers. Convenient as they are, mishandling them can lead to injury or accidents, so let's get the basics down first.
- Never pull a blade toward yourself: with a utility knife or saw, don't put your hand in the direction the blade travels. Be aware of the direction of force, and take care not to cut your hand when the cut finishes.
- Wear protective gear as needed: protective glasses for work that throws off chips and fragments, gloves when handling hard objects. Don't underestimate it just because it's a household job.
- Keep out of children's reach: blades, small bits, and power tools pose risks of swallowing and injury, so keep them in the case, on a high shelf or somewhere lockable.
Checks before drilling a hole in a wall
When drilling a hole in a wall to mount a shelf or hook, always check the location of electrical wiring, water/gas pipes, and the studs (framing) inside the wall. Drilling carelessly and damaging wiring can cause electric shock, and damaging a pipe can lead to water or gas leaks, which could become a serious accident. Use a stud sensor (wall scanner) to find the studs, and don't push on if you are unsure. Serious work involving electricity, gas, or water must not be done without qualifications; always ask a professional contractor or qualified person.
Restoring a rental to its original condition
If you live in a rental, drilling holes in the wall or hammering nails can be related to restoration to original condition (repairs) when you move out. Check the lease terms first, and if it is allowed, it is reassuring to choose a method whose marks are inconspicuous. Items that minimize holes are also on the market, such as types fixed with pins thinner than thumbtacks, hooks you can stick on and peel off, and tension-rod shelves. Before gathering tools, confirm “how far you may alter things,” and you can avoid regret.
Follow This Order Before Buying and You Won't Miss
Product pages seem to have plenty of information, yet often leave out the crucial points. Deciding the order in which you look speeds up your judgment.
- First count the number and standards of screwdriversLook not at the total piece count but at which numbers of Phillips and flathead are included and how many of each. If this is off, you end up with only one Phillips #2, the one you use most, and no #1 for fine screws, and you strip the screw heads in the end.
- Open the bit item listBesides Phillips and flathead, does it include hex socket and Torx (star)? If it is lacking, you will be stuck at the back covers of appliances or parts of a bicycle. Don't judge from photos alone; look for the text list.
- Check the size range of the hex keysInclude whether they are marked in millimeters or inches. Metric is mainstream for assembled furniture, but imported goods mix in inches. Forcing in a size that doesn't match rounds off the corners of the hex socket so it can never be turned again.
- Look at the drive size of the ratchet and socketsIf the square hole size (drive size) of the sockets doesn't match the handle, sockets you buy later won't fit. Within the same set they of course match, but if you think of expanding, note the numbers.
- If power is included, confirm the power sourceRechargeable or dry-cell? If rechargeable, is the battery built into the body or removable? With a built-in battery, the whole unit may become unusable when it degrades.
- Look at how the case holds the toolsWhether each fits into a die-cut tray or the case only has dividers changes how easy it is to put things back after use. With dividers only, from the second use on things end up scattered and the time spent looking for the tool you need grows.
- Match the case's outer dimensions against where it will goWill it fit the height and depth of the shelf you plan to store it on? Skip this and it ends up left on the entryway floor, which becomes a reason you stop using it.
- Recall how tight your work spaces areIf you have the back of the washing machine or under the sink in mind, does the set include short screwdrivers or stubby types? With a set of only long shafts, you physically can't reach the screws in those places.
- Check the seller, the manufacturer, and the contact pointWhom do you contact for missing items or initial defects? If the contact is unclear, you have no recourse if trouble arises after it arrives.
- Check the language and wording of the manualEspecially if power tools are included, does it come with Japanese instructions? Using a tool without being able to read the safety precautions is something to avoid.
If You Can See It in Person, Touch These Things
If you can check in a store, actually gripping the screwdriver handle is the surest way. Too thick and your fingers can't wrap around it; too thin and you can't apply force. Hand size varies by person, so your own hand is more accurate than review scores. The other check is to spin the ratchet freely and listen to the sound and watch the return. If the clicking feed is smooth without catching, the mechanism is in decent shape.
Before checking, list three “screws you want to turn” in your home to improve accuracy: the connecting bolts of a piece of furniture, a bicycle saddle, and an outlet plate. Even for these three, the tools needed are completely different, and if you write them down first and then look at the item list, the missing items stand out right away.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a “XX-piece set” a better deal the more pieces it has?
Not necessarily. Most of the count is made up of bits and sockets, and what you actually hold at home is only a few screwdrivers, hex keys, pliers, and a tape measure. Even with more than 100 pieces, over half often goes unused. Rather than the total count, choosing a set that has just the right tools for your use (assembly, repairs, and so on) and prioritizing the quality of the few tools you use most will lead to higher satisfaction.
Why do screws strip (get chewed up) with cheap sets?
The main cause is the accuracy of the screwdriver tip. In cheap sets the tip doesn't fit the screw recess snugly and wobbles slightly, so when force is applied the cross slot gets chewed up and strips. Once a screw is stripped it won't turn and is hard to rescue. Japanese furniture and appliances mainly use JIS Phillips #2, so using a screwdriver of the matching size with sharp tip edges and solid surface treatment is the biggest point in preventing stripping. Pressing straight down hard and turning slowly is also basic.
What do I need to assemble IKEA or mail-order furniture?
This kind of assembled furniture is often joined with hex bolts and comes with a small hex key. But the supplied key is short and hard to put force on, so an L-shaped hex key or a hex driver with swappable bits makes assembly easier. Sizes are basically metric (mm), so check that the set includes metric hex keys. With one Phillips #2 screwdriver in addition, you can handle most mail-order furniture.
Should I buy an electric screwdriver?
Decide by how many screws you tighten and how often. If you will assemble large furniture or assembly-type racks many times, an electric one reduces strain on your wrist and shortens assembly time, which is more comfortable. Conversely, for tightening screws a few times a year or opening battery covers, considering the hassle of charging and storage, one good manual screwdriver is enough. Also, for home use, an electric screwdriver with gentle torque is less likely to strip screws and easier to handle than a powerful impact driver.
If I get a power model, is rechargeable or battery-powered better?
Choose by how often you use it. If you assemble or do DIY often, a rechargeable one with power and suited to continuous work is convenient. However, it needs charging before use, and leaving it for a long time can weaken the battery through over-discharge. Dry-cell types work as soon as batteries are inserted and suit occasional jobs. For a few times a year, dry-cell or manual is enough. Store rechargeable ones away from heat and water, and a torque adjustment (clutch) to prevent overtightening makes damaging furniture less likely.
Can it handle small screws on eyeglasses or battery covers?
A regular #2 screwdriver is often too big to turn them. Eyeglass arms, battery covers on remotes and toys, and small screws on game consoles require precision screwdrivers of #0 or smaller. When choosing a basic set, check whether it includes a few of these thin precision screwdrivers; that way you won't need to buy extras when the time comes. Everyday “small troubles” surprisingly often happen at these fine sizes.
Can I mount shelves or hooks with tools in a rental?
First check your lease for whether drilling holes or hammering nails into the wall is allowed, because it relates to restoration to original condition (repairs) when you move out. If it is allowed, it is reassuring to choose a method whose marks are inconspicuous, and items that minimize holes are on the market, such as types fixed with thin pins, hooks you can stick on and peel off, and tension-rod shelves. If you do drill, always check the wiring, pipes, and studs inside the wall, and for any work that worries you or involves electricity, gas, or water, ask a professional contractor or qualified person.
How should I use Phillips screwdriver sizes “No. 1” and “No. 2”?
The number corresponds to the size of the cross slot in the screw head. For the furniture assembly and appliance exteriors common at home, No. 2 is the main one; fine screws on eyeglasses and small devices use No. 1, and even smaller ones call for precision screwdrivers of No. 0 or smaller. Turning with the wrong size chews up the slot and strips it, so if it wobbles when inserted, try one size down.
I heard hex keys come in millimeters and inches. Can you tell them apart?
They are almost impossible to tell apart by sight, so you judge by actually inserting one. Most assembled furniture and bicycles sold in Japan are marked in millimeters, but imported furniture and some overseas-brand products use inches. If you feel slight play when inserting, it is probably a different standard, and applying force as is will round off the corners of the hex socket, so it is safer to stop for the moment.
If I strip a screw, can I deal with it using what's in the tool set?
General household sets often do not include a tool made for stripped screws. While the slot still remains, wedging one size larger or a flathead screwdriver into the slot and turning slowly while pressing harder may get it out. If it is completely rounded off, you will need another tool such as a dedicated screw-extractor bit.
Is a rechargeable or dry-cell electric screwdriver better for home use?
It depends on how often you use it. If you use it only a few times a year, a dry-cell type, whose batteries are less likely to degrade when left alone, is more likely to work when you need it. If you continually assemble things or put up shelves, a rechargeable one that delivers torque and withstands continuous use suits you. Rechargeable ones self-discharge if left for several months, so charging it the day before you plan to use it is the surest approach.
How should I care for a tool set?
The basics are to wipe off dirt and moisture after use and return the tools to the case dry. Metal parts rust with humidity, so avoid storing them in an outdoor shed or a place prone to condensation. When the moving parts of the ratchet stiffen, apply a small amount of dedicated lubricant. Check the screwdriver tips briefly each time you use them, and replace them early once the corners start to round off, and you can avoid damaging the screws.
* This article is for reference only. Sale dates, point rates and campaign terms can change, so check each store's official page for the latest details.