How to Choose a Plant Pot in Japan: Materials, Sizes (Gō), Drainage, Repotting and Matching Your Plant
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Choosing a pot is really about planning how you manage water
You pick a plant pot on looks alone, and six months later your plant is suffering from root rot or drying out. This is the most common stumbling block in gardening. A pot is the container that sets how your flowers and greenery look, but it's also a device that controls how fast the soil dries and how the roots breathe. In the end, choosing a pot is close to designing the "watering rhythm" for that plant. Whatever material, size or drainage you choose, it changes how the soil dries, and that directly affects how often you water.
This article doesn't recommend any particular brand or store; it's written as general information. It's arranged in the order people actually tend to stumble: why terracotta and plastic differ in how much water they hold, how to choose a size (gō) and common sizing mistakes, the pitfalls of drainage holes and saucers, the right way to use pot covers (double potting), frost cracking in winter, and how to shop in repotting season. Start from one question: does your plant like it dry or moist?
The one thing to decide first: Is your plant the "keep it on the dry side" type or the "keep it on the moist side" type? For dry-loving plants like cacti, succulents and herbs, go with fast-drying terracotta in a smaller size. For moisture-loving houseplants, plastic or ceramic that holds water well works better. Once this is settled, material and size narrow down naturally.
What material changes is "how fast it dries"
The difference between materials makes sense once you look at whether the pot itself lets moisture escape, rather than looks or weight. Terracotta breathes, so soil dries quickly; plastic and glazed ceramic trap moisture, so soil is slow to dry. Same plant, same soil — a different pot material gives a completely different watering rhythm.
| Material | How fast it dries | Best for / quirks |
|---|---|---|
| Unglazed clay / terracotta | Very fast | For dry-loving plants and people who worry about overwatering. Heavy, breaks easily, white mineral deposits (efflorescence) appear |
| Plastic | Slow | For people who want water retention or move pots often. Light and cheap; slit types that show roots are also available |
| Glazed ceramic | Slow | Indoor use where looks matter. Heavy and holds water well, so watch out for overwatering |
| Wood (planters) | Medium | Natural look. Surfaces touching soil deteriorate easily, so lifespan is shorter |
| Cement / metal | Medium to slow | Modern, industrial look. Metal heats up in summer and can damage roots |
| Non-woven fabric (felt) | Fast | Very breathable and gentle on roots. Light and foldable, but looks rough and doesn't stand up well |
The classic choice is unglazed clay (terracotta). Moisture escapes through the pot walls, so soil dries fast and root rot is less likely — its biggest advantage. The trade-off is more frequent watering; in midsummer it can dry out between morning and evening. It's heavy and breaks if dropped, and with long use white mineral deposits (efflorescence) appear on the surface, but this isn't a defect — it's proof the terracotta is breathing.
Plastic, on the other hand, doesn't let moisture escape, so soil dries slowly — actually a plus for people who prioritize water retention or tend to forget to water. It's light and cheap, and recently more products like slit pots (スリット鉢), with vertical slits in the sides, improve airflow and drainage even in plastic. Glazed ceramic is chosen for indoor décor, but even if it looks similar to terracotta, it dries in the opposite way. Remember: if it has a smooth glaze, it's a "slow-drying pot," and you won't get the watering wrong.
How to read pot sizes (gō) and the "too big" trap
Pot size in Japan is given in gō (号), and 1 gō ≈ 3 cm in diameter. A 3-gō pot is about 9 cm across, a 6-gō pot about 18 cm, a 10-gō pot about 30 cm — multiply the gō number by 3 to get the approximate diameter in cm. What many people misunderstand is that gō refers to the rim diameter, not depth or volume. Even at the same gō, shallow, deep and tall pots hold very different amounts of soil.
| Gō | Approx. rim diameter | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 3 gō | Approx. 9 cm | Succulents, mini cacti, temporary potting of seedlings |
| 4–5 gō | Approx. 12–15 cm | Small houseplants, one plant in a mixed planting |
| 6–7 gō | Approx. 18–21 cm | Mid-size houseplants, herbs, tabletop centerpiece |
| 8–10 gō | Approx. 24–30 cm | Medium to large floor houseplants, potted fruit trees |
| 12 gō and up | Approx. 36 cm and up | Statement-tree size. Heavy, so plan any moves |
The biggest sizing pitfall is jumping to a big pot because you want the plant to grow big fast. It backfires. If there's more soil than the roots can absorb, moisture lingers and the roots stay constantly wet — root rot. As noted above, a big pot in a slow-drying material like plastic or ceramic is doubly slow to dry and very likely to fail.
The golden rule for repotting is "go up gradually, one step (1–2 gō) larger than the current pot." From 3 gō to 4–5 gō, from 6 gō to 7–8 gō. If you want faster growth, respond with timely repotting, fertilizer and sunlight, not a big pot. Another common mistake is leaving a newly bought seedling in its plastic nursery pot (a temporary pot). Those pots are just for shipping and sale, so move the plant into a properly sized pot before the roots start circling.
Drainage holes, pot bottoms and saucers — a foundation that keeps plants alive
Before material or size, check drainage. Get this wrong and your plant will die no matter how good the pot is. Set up the water's path — from the pot bottom, around the pot, to the saucer — as one continuous flow.
- Always check the drainage hole in the bottomWhen buying, check that there is a hole and that it isn't blocked. Planting directly in a container without a hole is the fastest route to root rot.
- Cover the hole with pot meshFor larger holes, laying pot mesh (鉢底ネット) keeps soil from washing out and pests from getting in.
- Add a thin layer of pot-bottom stones if neededFor deep pots or pots with doubtful drainage, add a thin layer of pumice or similar. In shallow pots, too much reduces soil, so keep it light.
- Watch for root signalsRoots poking out of the drainage hole, water draining slowly, or the plant wobbling are signs it's time to repot.
- Empty the saucerDon't leave water sitting in the saucer. If the base keeps sitting in water, the roots will rot anyway.
Something surprisingly overlooked is the saucer's impact. Indoors you need one to protect the floor, but if you leave water in it, the bottom stays constantly wet even if you chose terracotta to dry things out — which defeats the purpose. Get in the habit of emptying the saucer every time you water, or use pot feet (spacers that lift the pot slightly) in a deep saucer.
Growing and safety checklist: ① A drainage hole is essential as a rule. Use stylish containers without holes as "pot covers" and put a pot with holes inside ② Pots that are too big cause root rot. Size up 1–2 gō at a time ③ Empty standing water from the saucer every time ④ Terracotta and ceramic can crack from freezing in winter. In cold regions, use frost-resistant pots or ones light enough to bring inside ⑤ Large pots get heavy once filled with soil. Move them with a caster saucer or a dolly, and don't strain your back ⑥ For hanging pots, watch the load limit of brackets and hooks, and the risk of falling ⑦ For disposing of old soil, check your local municipality's rules.
Pot covers (double potting) and self-watering pots: two handy tricks
"The container I love has no drainage hole." "Managing watering is a hassle." In those cases, knowing about double potting (the pot-cover method) and self-watering pots widens your options. Both give you much more freedom in choosing pots.
The pot-cover (double potting) method
Use a basket, ceramic container or tin can with no holes as the outer cover, and put a practical pot with drainage holes (such as a plastic slit pot) inside. This keeps the look of the container you love, and at watering time you just lift out the inner pot and drain it in the sink, so there's no saucer puddle to worry about. It's the go-to technique for combining indoor style with good drainage for the plant. The trick is to leave a small gap (raise the inner pot) between the inner pot and the cover so the inner pot's base doesn't sit in drained water.
Self-watering (reservoir) pots
Some pots have a water tank in the bottom, and the plant draws up only what it needs. They're handy if you want longer gaps between watering or travel often for leisure or work, but there's always water present, so they're unsuitable for dry-loving plants. They don't suit cacti, succulents or dry-type herbs. On the other hand, they pair well with thirsty flowering plants and some houseplants. Keep in mind that the pot type itself leans toward "drying" or "keeping moist," and you'll have fewer failures.
If in doubt, the easy, classic combo is "a plastic slit pot for function, a favorite cover for looks." When repotting or redecorating, you can swap everything quickly, inner pot and all.
You can't plant with just a pot — what you need at the same time, and what can wait
A plant pot is just a container, so you can't plant anything with it alone. It's very common to happily pick out a pot at a home center (ホームセンター), get home, start repotting, and then find you don't have enough soil, no pot mesh, or a saucer that doesn't fit. Here we separate what you should get along with the pot from things that are often recommended but low priority.
Things you almost always need at the same time
- Potting soil: Nothing happens without it. Work out the amount from the pot size. Roughly, about 2 L for a 6-gō pot, about 5 L for an 8-gō pot, and about 10 L for a 10-gō pot (this varies with depth and shape). Bag volumes are shown in liters, so thinking "enough for X pots of Y gō" reduces mistakes when buying more.
- Pot mesh: Stops soil from washing out of the drainage hole, and slugs and chafer beetles from getting in. One roll you can cut to size works for pots of every size. Pots with long, narrow holes like slit pots may not need it, but it's safer to use it in terracotta or plastic pots with round holes.
- Saucer (essential indoors): Choose one a size larger than the pot's outer diameter. Since gō roughly equals diameter, an 8-gō pot needs a saucer equivalent to 9–10 gō. If you buy an exact fit, the pot hides the rim and you can't see whether water has overflowed.
- Something to protect your workspace while repotting: Newspaper, a picnic sheet, a gardening soil bag, etc. Especially if you repot on a balcony or indoors, without these you'll tend to keep putting the job off.
Things that make the job much easier
- Soil scoop: When filling soil into narrow pots or gaps around the plant base, it's far more efficient than your hands or a ladle. Sets with large, medium and small sizes are easy to use.
- Disposable chopsticks or a thin stick: After repotting, poke the gaps between roots and soil to settle the soil. Skip this and the soil will sink with every watering, tilting the plant.
- Watering can, ideally with a rose (sprinkler head): Right after repotting, water thoroughly until it runs out of the bottom to settle the soil. A narrow spout digs into the soil, so one with a rose is better.
- Pot-bottom stones: As explained below, they're not "always needed." They help with deep pots or soil whose drainage is a bit doubtful.
Often recommended, but lower priority
Some items are displayed alongside pots in stores, but there's no rush to get them for your first pot.
| Pot-bottom stones | With shallow pots or soil that already drains well, the effect is limited. They actually eat into the space for soil. It's enough to consider them for deep pots or heavy soil. |
| Caster stand | Worth it if you're moving pots over 10 gō indoors, but not needed for small to medium pots. Add one once you've decided to buy a big pot. |
| Fertilizer | Right after repotting, roots are often damaged, and sometimes it's better not to fertilize immediately. Many store-bought potting mixes already include base fertilizer, so check the soil label first — there's no hurry. |
| Buying a stylish pot cover at the same time as the pot | If you buy the cover before the inner pot size is final, it tends to either not fit or be too loose. It's safer to decide the inner pot first, then choose the outer one. |
| Moisture meter / soil moisture sensor | Not a bad thing to have, but with terracotta you can judge quite accurately by the pot's color change and weight, and with plastic by sticking your finger in up to the first knuckle. Learning by hand first is often quicker. |
When making a shopping list, base everything on the pot's gō: decide soil amount, saucer size and number of mesh sheets from that number, and you won't miss anything. Just jot down the gō and you'll spend much less time hesitating in the store.
The ongoing costs are "soil" and "effort" — making your pots last
Unlike appliances, plant pots never break down and stop working, so it's hard to notice them deteriorating. And the real cost isn't the pot itself but the soil you keep buying and the repotting work that comes around at least once a year. Plan for this and your care routine won't fall apart as your pot collection grows.
Each material wears out differently
| Unglazed clay / terracotta | Because it's porous, calcium in water and fertilizer components stick to the surface as white deposits. With long use, salts build up inside too and breathability drops. Outdoors, the biggest enemy is frost damage — cracking when it freezes while full of water. |
| Plastic / polypropylene | UV light hardens the resin, and cracks start from the rim and handles. Black or dark colors heat up easily, and roots inside can be damaged by direct summer sun. Indoors, lasting ten years or more isn't unusual. |
| Slit pots | Structurally sturdy, but fine roots and soil clog the slits, reducing the airflow advantage. When reusing them, whether you clean the slits makes a difference in performance. |
| Glazed ceramic pots | Dirt doesn't stick easily, but they're heavy and chip at once if dropped. Frost damage is less of a problem than with terracotta, but leaving them outdoors all winter is risky. |
| Wooden planters | They rot from the inside where they touch soil. Using them as a "cover" with a pot inside extends their life. |
The recurring cost is soil, not pots
Pots stay with you once bought, but soil is a consumable. The more pots you have, the more soil you buy every year. These approaches can lighten the load:
- Standardize sizes: If your pots are all different sizes, it's hard to use up leftover soil. Decide "we only use 5 gō and 8 gō," and soil and saucers become interchangeable.
- Rework old soil instead of throwing it out: The common method is to sift out roots and debris, spread it in the sun to dry, mix in compost or a soil rejuvenator, and reuse it. As a rule, though, don't reuse soil from diseased plants. Soil disposal rules differ by municipality, so check your local rules before expanding your collection.
- Set a "repotting month": Pick one day in spring or autumn as repotting day and do everything at once. You can buy soil in bulk, and you only get the tools out once.
Once a year, question what's inside the pot
Grow a plant in the same pot for years and it gradually declines, even though nothing looks different. These signs mean it's time to look inside:
- Water no longer soaks inWater pools on the surface and drains slowly. Either the soil has compacted, or roots are packed so tightly that water has no path.
- Roots are coming out of the drainage holeA sign the root ball has filled the pot. Left alone, the plant won't be able to take up water or nutrients.
- You suddenly need to water more oftenThere's less soil and more roots. Fast drying is a classic sign of being root-bound.
- The pot still feels light when you lift itIf it's light even right after watering, the soil may not be holding water.
Caring for the pot itself
As a rule, wash pots that are emptied during repotting before using them again. Scrub off the soil, and for terracotta, brush off the stuck-on white deposits. If a diseased plant was in the pot, dry it thoroughly after washing before reusing it to be safe. For terracotta pots used outdoors in winter, simply changing how you place them before the season so they don't stay soaked lowers the chance of cracking. Don't leave water in the saucer, move them under the eaves, and raise them slightly instead of setting them directly on the ground — these all help.
If you use plastic pots outdoors, small tweaks like choosing lighter colors where direct sunlight hits or blocking the sun with a pot cover affect how long they last. If they're mainly indoors, on the other hand, you hardly need to worry about plastic pots deteriorating.
Cracks, holes, wrong size — what to check when your pot arrives
Plant pots are prone to their own particular problems when bought online. They're heavy, break easily, and once you've opened them and put soil in, they're hard to return. That's exactly why it's clear what to check in the first few minutes after unboxing.
Four things to check right after opening
- Chips on the rim and baseCeramic and terracotta can get chipped rims or cracked bases from impacts in transit. Also check for fragments in the packing material.
- Whether there are drainage holes, and how manyDécor-oriented pots are sometimes "pot-cover style" with no holes. Before buying, check whether the product page says "with hole / without hole" (穴あり／穴なし); when it arrives, check the actual pot.
- Mismatch between inner and outer dimensionsGō sizes are often based on outer diameter, so thick-walled pots are smaller inside than you'd expect. If you bought it as a pot cover, test that your pot fits before adding soil.
- Cracks (hairline cracks)Fine crackle in the glaze is sometimes considered character rather than a defect, but a crack going right through the body leads to leaks. They're easier to spot when the pot is dry and held up to the light.
Know where "defect" ends and "by design" begins
Ceramic pots involve handwork, so a fairly wide range of individual variation is treated as "by design." Rereading the product page before asking for a return or exchange speeds things up. Things often treated as normal include:
- Uneven glaze, variations in color, drip marks
- Rough surface on terracotta, traces of tiny air bubbles
- Slight differences from the stated gō size (not unusual for handmade items)
- A slight wobble on the base (the base may not be perfectly flat)
On the other hand, the following are generally treated as defects. If you're unsure, taking photos of the condition when you open it makes contacting the seller smoother.
- A crack going through the body, a missing piece of the rim
- No drainage hole even though one was listed, or a misplaced hole that's blocked
- A size clearly different from the gō you ordered
- A missing saucer or pot mesh that was supposed to be included in a set
Where returns most often get stuck
The most common dead end when returning a plant pot is "I already put soil in it." Many online shops won't accept returns once an item is judged to be used. When it arrives, check it empty first — that alone protects you a lot. The next most common issue is throwing away the packaging. Fragile pots can break further in return shipping unless they're in the original box and cushioning, and shops may ask you to send them back in the original packaging. Finish checking before you flatten the box on delivery day.
Also, large pots are expensive to ship. Who pays return shipping almost always depends on whether it's an initial defect or a return for the buyer's own reasons. "It was bigger than I thought" or "the color wasn't what I imagined" tend to count as the buyer's reasons, so pinning down dimensions and texture before buying ends up being the cheapest option.
Checks you can do before buying
| Basis for the gō size | Outer or inner diameter? Is depth listed separately? Even at the same gō, shallow and deep pots hold very different amounts of soil. |
| Drainage holes | Yes/no, how many, diameter. If buying one without holes, plan on double potting. |
| Weight | Empty weight. With soil and water it becomes several times heavier. Important if it'll go on a balcony or shelf. |
| Saucer included | Included or sold separately? If separate, is the compatible gō listed? |
| Suitable for outdoors? | Is there a note about frost damage? It's safer not to leave ceramic pots marked "indoor use recommended" (屋内推奨) outside in winter. |
Pots that come with a plant sometimes can't be exchanged on their own. If you care a lot about the pot, buying the plant and pot separately and repotting yourself leaves you more options if something goes wrong.
Terracotta, plastic or slit pot — how to decide when you're torn
Choosing a pot isn't about which is "best" but which fits your watering habits and where you'll place it. Here we break down commonly compared options by situation.
Terracotta vs plastic
| Unglazed clay / terracotta | Plastic | |
| How it dries | Water also escapes through the walls, so it dries fast | Water only drains from the bottom hole, so it dries slowly |
| Good for | People who tend to overwater; plants that dislike humidity | People who forget to water; plants that don't tolerate drying |
| Weight | Heavy. Hard to tip over but hard to move | Light. Good for shelves and hanging |
| Weak points over time | Frost damage, salt buildup | UV degradation, heat buildup in summer |
| Looks | Gains character with use | Can look a bit utilitarian as-is |
In other words: if you know you overwater, go terracotta; if you're busy and water irregularly, go plastic. What's interesting about this category is that even for the same plant, the right pot changes depending on the grower's habits.
Slit pots vs regular pots with round holes
Slit pots have long, narrow slits in the lower sides and are said to prevent "root circling," where roots go round and round inside the pot. When root tips reach the slits, they're exposed to air and stop growing, and instead branch out into more fine roots.
- Slit pots suit: fruit tree and garden tree seedlings, plants in their growth phase, cutting down how often you repot, stacking pots for storage. A strong, function-first type for growing.
- Regular round-hole pots suit: displaying plants as indoor décor, putting them in a pot cover, wanting a wide choice of designs. Slit pots come in limited shapes and colors.
One caution for outdoors: the airflow through the slits also means faster drying. A small slit pot on a balcony in midsummer may need watering twice a day.
Planting directly vs using a pot cover (double potting)
Plant directly in a stylish container with no hole, or plant in a growing pot and put it in a cover? This choice matters a lot indoors.
| Plant directly | Double pot | |
| Water management | Without a hole, high risk of root rot | You can discard water that drains from the inner pot |
| Repotting | You have to work with the whole heavy container | Just pull out the inner pot |
| Design freedom | Makes full use of the container's shape | Change just the outer cover for the season or a room makeover |
| Effort | Low | Taking out the inner pot each time you water, or draining collected water |
If the decorative container has no hole, double potting is the safer choice as a rule. If you really want to plant directly, you'll need to strictly limit watering to "just enough to moisten the soil," which is considerably harder.
Self-watering pots: a third option
These store water in a tank at the bottom and let the plant draw it up through capillary action. They're a great ally for people who are often away or travel a lot. However, since it's hard to create dry periods, they don't pair well with succulents, cacti or herbs that like clear wet-dry cycles. They suit moisture-loving houseplants and seasonal flowering plants.
One big pot or several small ones?
One large pot or several smaller ones side by side? This is also worth comparing. A large pot holds more soil, so it dries more slowly and needs less frequent watering, but the soil and water are heavy and you can't move it every time you rearrange. A group of small pots is easy to move, and losing one doesn't ruin the whole display, but you simply have more watering and more pots to manage. A helpful way to think about it: if you often move things around or chase the sunlight, lean toward small pots; if the spot is fixed and you want less work, lean toward a big pot.
If you're unsure about your first pot, planting in a plastic growing pot or slit pot and dressing up only the outside with a cover you like is a hard-to-fail setup. You can decide function and looks separately, and later change just one of them.
The best pot depends on where you put it
Even for the exact same plant, the right pot changes depending on where you place it. Sunlight, temperature, wind, flooring, how easy it is to move — work backward from the location's conditions to choose the material and type.
| Location | Suitable pots | Things to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Indoors (living room, etc.) | Glazed ceramic, favorite cover + inner pot | Protect floors with a saucer / empty standing water |
| Windowsill / bay window | Lighter ceramic, plastic | Direct summer sun makes the inside of the pot very hot. Metal gets especially hot |
| Balcony | Light plastic, slit pots | Stable enough not to blow over / easy to move for evacuation routes or rearranging |
| Outdoors on the ground | Large, stable terracotta or cement | Weather resistance / extremely heavy once filled with soil |
| Hanging | Light plastic, non-woven fabric | Load limit of brackets, secure against falling |
| Outdoors in cold regions | Pots labeled frost-resistant, light enough to bring inside | Terracotta and ceramic can crack from freezing |
Indoors, ceramic and covers are popular for their looks, but managing the saucer is key. A windowsill seems bright and good for plants, but in summer the inside of the pot can get surprisingly hot and damage roots. Metal pots in particular conduct heat well and get too hot in direct sun, so choose their spot carefully. On a balcony, light plastic is handy since you'll need to move pots for evacuation routes or rearranging, but you also need a low center of gravity and stability so they don't blow over in strong wind. Outdoors in cold regions, moisture soaked into terracotta or ceramic can freeze and expand and crack the pot, so choose pots labeled frost-resistant, or ones light enough to bring inside for winter, to be safe.
Common mistakes and how to recover
Here are the pot-choosing points people most often regret, each paired with the cause and fix. Most come down to water management and size.
- Planted directly in a container with no drainage hole → root rot: Repot into a pot with holes, or use the container as a cover with a practical pot inside.
- Jumped straight to a big pot → soil won't dry, root rot: Go back to sizing up 1–2 gō at a time. If you want a big pot, water much less often.
- Dry-loving plant in glazed ceramic → weakened by too much moisture: Move it to a fast-drying pot like terracotta or a slit pot.
- Left water in the saucer → bottom constantly wet: Empty it after every watering, or use pot feet.
- Left a seedling in its plastic nursery pot → root-bound: Move it to a properly sized pot before the roots start circling.
- Outdoor terracotta cracked in winter: In cold regions, use frost-resistant pots or bring them inside. Broken pot shards can be used instead of pot-bottom stones.
- Big pot too heavy to move: Decide the spot before adding soil / get a caster saucer ready first.
Smart shopping for repotting season
Plant pots don't have clear clearance sales for older models like appliances do, but there is a demand peak that tells you when to buy. Spring (roughly March–May) and autumn, the best times to repot, are peak gardening season, when pots, soil and seedlings all sell at once. Selection is wide, but popular sizes and classic terracotta and slit pots tend to sell out during the season. If you're planning to repot, gather everything — soil, pot mesh and saucers too — a little before the season starts, so you won't panic on repotting day over not having a pot in the right size.
Where to buy: stores vs online
- Home centers and garden centers: The biggest advantage is holding the actual sizes in your hands. You can match pot and plant size by eye. You can also ask on the spot about transporting large pots or heavy soil.
- 100-yen shops and fixed-price stores: Good for cheaply stocking up on consumables like small plastic pots, saucers and pot mesh. More design pots are appearing too.
- Online shopping: Strong for stylish pots and covers, and ordering and home delivery of large pots. You don't have to carry heavy soil or big pots. Always check the gō, rim diameter and depth before ordering.
If you shop online, timing purchases with each marketplace's point-up campaigns and sales avoids waste. For example, add pots and soil on a day you're stocking up on household or gardening goods. However, point-back rates, point multipliers and shipping conditions change over time. Heavy soil and large pots in particular can have shipping that makes a big difference to the price, so always check the current conditions on each official site or marketplace before buying. Pots don't go out of style and last a long time, so choosing by "does it suit this plant and spot?" rather than "it's cheap" ends up being most satisfying.
When choosing pots online, don't decide on the photo's vibe alone — always check "gō, rim diameter (cm), depth, drainage hole, saucer included." It prevents the "smaller than I thought / the saucer was sold separately" surprise on delivery.
FAQ
Terracotta or plastic: which should I choose?
Decide by whether your plant likes it dry or moist. Terracotta lets moisture escape through its walls so soil dries fast, making it suitable for dry-loving plants like cacti, succulents and herbs, or for people who worry about overwatering. However, it's heavy, breaks easily, and gets white mineral deposits on the surface. Plastic keeps soil from drying and holds water well, so it's an ally for moisture-loving houseplants and people who forget to water. In practice: plastic if you move pots often, terracotta if you worry about root rot.
What does "gō" mean, and which size should I pick?
Gō (号) is a unit for the pot's rim diameter: 1 gō ≈ 3 cm. Multiply the gō by 3 for a rough rim diameter in cm; a 6-gō pot is about 18 cm. Note that gō is the opening's diameter, not depth or volume. Even at the same gō, shallow and deep pots hold different amounts of soil. Choose to match the plant you're growing, and when repotting, go only 1–2 sizes larger than the current pot. Rough guide: around 3 gō for succulents and mini cacti, 6–7 gō for tabletop houseplants, 8–10 gō for large floor plants.
Can I plant directly in a stylish container with no drainage hole?
Please avoid planting directly. Without a drainage hole, water collects at the bottom, the roots stay constantly wet, and they rot. If you really want to use that container, use it as a "pot cover." Put a plastic pot with drainage holes inside, and when watering, take out just the inner pot and drain it in the sink. Leaving a small gap (raising the inner pot) between the cover and inner pot so its base doesn't sit in drained water lets you have both good looks and good drainage.
Will my plant grow faster if I repot it into a bigger pot?
It often has the opposite effect. If there's more soil than the roots can absorb, moisture lingers, the roots stay wet, and root rot follows. A big pot in a slow-drying material like plastic or glazed ceramic is doubly slow to dry and often fails. The rule is to move up gradually, 1–2 sizes larger than now. If you want faster growth, respond with timely repotting, sunlight and fertilizer rather than a big pot. Move up to the next size when roots appear at the bottom of the pot.
What should I do with water in the saucer?
As a rule, empty it every time. Indoors you need a saucer to protect floors and shelves, but if water is left in it, only the bottom of the pot stays constantly wet, and roots rot from below even if you chose terracotta to dry things out. Get in the habit of emptying the saucer every time you water, or use pot feet or a saucer with legs to lift the pot slightly so the base doesn't sit in water. Laying pebbles in a deep saucer to raise the pot is another easy option.
What is the white powdery stuff on terracotta pots?
It's "efflorescence" (mineral deposits) — components of water and fertilizer that have seeped to the surface — and it's not a defect. You could call it proof that the terracotta is releasing moisture and breathing, and many people see it as character. If it bothers you, scrubbing with a brush, washing with water, or wiping with diluted vinegar removes it fairly easily. It naturally comes back with long use, so there's no need to be too fussy about it. This hardly ever happens with glazed ceramic.
I heard outdoor pots can crack in winter. How do I prevent it?
Terracotta and ceramic can crack when absorbed water freezes and expands. If you keep pots outdoors in a cold area, choose ones labeled frost-resistant, or use freeze-tolerant materials like plastic for peace of mind. Another option is pots light enough to bring indoors or under the eaves for winter. Pots crack more easily when the soil freezes while wet, so watering less in winter to reduce moisture in the pot also helps. If one does crack, the shards can be reused instead of pot-bottom stones.
What kind of pot should I start with for my first plant?
A plastic or terracotta pot with a drainage hole in a manageable size is a safe bet. Rather than insisting on an expensive designer pot from the start, you're less likely to fail if you begin with one that has a drainage hole and isn't too big for the plant (usually around 4–6 gō). Get a saucer and pot mesh as well. Once you're used to it, try the double-potting method — an inner pot inside a cover you love — to enjoy the look. The two most common stumbling points are drainage and size, so get those right and you'll be fine.
Can I drill a hole myself in a stylish pot that has no drainage hole?
With terracotta or thin ceramic, you may be able to drill at low speed using a tile/glass drill bit. However, thick glazed containers and porcelain crack easily, and the success rate isn't high. The basic method is to go slowly while pouring water over the spot. Decide beforehand whether it's a container you don't mind breaking, or whether you'll use it as a double pot without drilling.
Do I really need pot-bottom stones? What happens without them?
With shallow pots or potting mix that already drains well, skipping them is usually fine. Pot-bottom stones help in deep pots where water tends to pool, or with heavy soil. Adding them reduces soil volume and therefore root space. A realistic approach is to try with just pot mesh first, and add stones at the next repotting if drainage is poor.
Can I reuse old soil as-is in a new pot?
If the previous plant was healthy, the common method is to sift out roots and debris, dry the soil in the sun, then mix in a soil rejuvenator or compost. However, it's safer not to reuse soil from plants that had disease or pests. Old soil also often loses its crumb structure and drains poorly, so mixing it with fresh potting soil gives more stable results.
My terracotta pot cracked in winter. How can I prevent this?
Terracotta is porous and absorbs water, so it can crack when the water inside freezes and expands. In winter, it helps to not leave water in the saucer, raise the pot slightly off the ground, and move it under the eaves or against a wall to avoid rain and cold. In very cold areas, you can also repot into plastic just for winter or bring the plant indoors.
Taking the inner pot out of the cover every time I water is a hassle.
You can raise the inner pot on a slatted stand or brick pieces so that drained water collecting in the bottom of the cover doesn't touch the roots. However, leaving that water causes stuffiness and odors, so drain it every few days or lift the inner pot to check. Choosing a light plastic pot as the inner pot makes taking it in and out much easier.
With the same gō size, does choosing a shallow or deep pot make a difference?
Yes. Since gō mainly refers to the rim diameter, a deep pot of the same gō holds more soil and dries more slowly. Deep pots suit plants with deep roots or large plants; shallow pots suit plants with shallow, spreading roots like succulents, or when you want clear wet-dry cycles. When buying, check depth and volume (in liters) as well as gō so you don't misjudge how much soil you need.
* This article is for reference only. Sale dates, point rates and campaign terms can change, so check each store's official page for the latest details.