When to Replace Your Phone, PC or Tablet (2026): Signs It's Time and How to Buy for Less
Prices, point rates and sale details in this article were checked by the mottoku editorial team against each service's official site and API (as of the last update). Always check the official sites for current prices, stock and campaign terms.
Waiting until it breaks is too late: timing is what matters
Phones, PCs and tablets rarely die suddenly one morning like other appliances. Instead, they slowly get sluggish, the battery stops lasting more than half a day, and eventually the latest OS and apps leave them behind. The tricky part is that this decline is gradual, so it's easy to think "it still works." Then you end up rushing to replace it after something decisive happens: a cracked screen, random shutdowns, or the end of OS support.
When you buy in an emergency, you have no time to compare models or prices. You buy whatever is in stock at whatever price it's listed at, and your data transfer ends up rushed too. But if you set your sights on the next cheap buying window as soon as the first signs of wear appear, you can get the same performance for a good chunk less through older models or sales, and handle the transfer calmly. What really pays off when replacing a device isn't so much the model you choose as planning when to make your move.
This guide builds that plan around three points: (1) how to read each device's different "lifespan clock," (2) how to rank the warning signs that show up before a fatal failure, and (3) how to time your purchase so you don't overpay. For detailed buying advice on specific types of device, we link to our separate articles.
Each device has its own "lifespan clock"
They're all "digital devices," but phones, PCs and tablets differ quite a bit in what limits their lifespan and how often you need to replace them. Lump them together and you might rush to replace a PC that still has life in it, or hang on far too long to a phone that's at its limit. First, let's look at what wears each one out first.
| Device | Main lifespan factor | Typical replacement cycle | Room to extend its life |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phone | Battery wear + OS support deadline | About 3–5 years | A battery replacement can sometimes add 1–2 years |
| Laptop | Slowdowns + OS generation changes | About 5–7 years | Switching to an SSD or adding RAM can make a big difference |
| Tablet | OS support + app performance demands | About 4–6 years | Lasts a long time if used mainly for video and reading |
The key column is "room to extend its life." Each device has a different personality: PCs are easy to revive with new parts, phones depend on the battery, and tablets usually reach the end because of OS support rather than their hardware. For example, a PC that's "just slow" often feels like new after switching to an SSD, so it's worth trying before you replace it. A tablet, on the other hand, may be in perfect working order, but once OS updates stop, some apps stop working, and that's effectively the end of its life.
Slow doesn't always mean it's time to replace. With PCs and phones in particular, if the cause is the battery, low free space or slow storage, you may be able to fix it without buying a new device. Before you decide, try the steps in "Find out why it's slow" below.
The real deadline is OS support: count back from the manufacturer's dates
Of all the warning signs, the end of OS and security support is the only one with a fixed date. Slowness and battery life are subjective, but manufacturers publish support end dates, so you can plan your replacement backwards from them. Once support ends, new security updates stop, and continuing to use online payments and logins becomes risky.
- Phones: The number of years of OS updates varies a lot by manufacturer and model. Models promised long-term updates from launch end up being safe to use for longer. When buying used or an older model, count how many years of updates are left from the release year to avoid a bad buy.
- PCs (Windows): Each Windows version has a set end-of-support date. As it approaches, check early whether you'll replace your PC or can upgrade to the new version (that is, whether your PC meets the requirements). For PCs that don't qualify, that date effectively becomes the end of their life.
- Mac, iPad and iPhone: Apple supports its devices with OS updates for relatively long, but older models still get dropped from the latest OS. Once a device is no longer supported, not only new features but also security updates taper off, so that's a natural cut-off point.
Manufacturers update their exact support end dates from time to time. The years in this article are only rough guides, so right before deciding, always check the official support information for your exact model. Especially for devices you use for online banking or work, it's best not to keep using them past the deadline.
Ranking the warning signs: danger, deadline, inconvenience
There are many signs it's time to replace a device, but treating them all the same makes it hard to decide. Sort them into three levels, "danger signs that need immediate action," "deadline signs you plan around," and "inconvenience signs you can live with for now," and you'll see at a glance whether you need to hurry.
| Category | Signs | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Danger (act now) | Swollen battery, abnormal overheating, a strange smell while charging | Stop using it and deal with it right away. Make replacement your top priority |
| Deadline (plan ahead) | OS or security updates ending soon, or the device can't update | Check the end date and replace it during a cheap window before then |
| Inconvenience (can wait) | Slow performance, low storage, new apps don't run smoothly | Try fixes first; if nothing improves, consider replacing |
| Early signs of failure | Loose charging port, dead spots on the screen, frequent restarts | If they get more frequent, act before a fatal breakdown |
A swollen battery is the top priority. If the back is lifting or the screen is being pushed up, there's a risk of fire or damage, so stop using it and deal with it quickly. Next in importance is the end of OS support. It's a lifespan with a fixed deadline, so build it into your plans right after danger signs. Inconvenience signs like slowness or full storage, on the other hand, can often be fixed without a new device, so they don't have to mean an immediate replacement.
Find out why it's slow: life-extension checks before you replace
"It's slow" is the most common reason people replace devices, but it doesn't always mean the device is worn out. Depending on the cause, a fix costing a few thousand yen, or nothing at all, can solve it and put off replacement by 1–2 years. Work through these steps in order.
- Check your free spaceWhen storage is nearly full, phones and PCs slow down dramatically. Move photos and videos to the cloud or an external drive, and clear out unused apps and caches. This alone often brings back the speed.
- Check the battery healthAs a battery wears, power-saving controls throttle performance, which makes the device feel slow. On a phone, check the battery's maximum capacity in Settings. If it's badly worn, a battery replacement may cost less than a new device.
- Cut down background and startup appsThe more apps a PC launches automatically, the slower it gets. Turn off background apps you don't use and update the OS and drivers. Sometimes a simple restart helps.
- For PCs, consider an SSD or more RAMIf an old PC uses a hard drive (HDD), switching to an SSD makes startup and everyday use dramatically faster. If the problem is too little memory, adding RAM helps. It costs less than a new PC and can add a lot of life.
- If it's still slow, replace itIf it's still slow after all this, or support is ending too, now's the time to replace it. Having tried to extend its life, you can move on without regrets.
The order matters. Working through storage → battery → background apps → parts, from cheapest and most effective first, helps you avoid wasting money. Keep in mind that if a device's support has ended, making it faster won't change its security lifespan.
Phone, PC or tablet: how to choose your next device
Once you've decided to replace, the next question is what to buy. Again, the key points differ by device. What they have in common: don't chase the newest top-end model; figure out what's enough for how you use it. An older or previous-generation model is enough more often than you'd think.
Phones
Since battery wear and OS support are the main factors, focus on how long updates are promised for your next phone. If you don't need the latest features, a previous-generation model is often plenty for everyday use and is more reasonably priced. Replacing your phone is also a good chance to review your mobile plan.
- How to buy an iPhone and when prices drop / When to buy Apple products
- Android vs iPhone: differences and how to choose / How to choose a SIM-free phone
- Review how you pay for the device together with your budget SIM and phone plan
PCs
The specs you need depend heavily on how you'll use it. For browsing and office work, you don't need high-end specs. For video editing or gaming, you'll need serious performance. Also check the OS support deadline and whether the PC can be upgraded to extend its life.
- How to choose a laptop / When to buy a laptop
- Gaming PCs (for gaming and heavy work) / When to buy a Mac
Tablets
If you mainly use it for video and reading, you don't need high specs, and it'll last a long time. OS support determines its lifespan, so choosing based on that helps it last.
Save a good chunk on the same model: timing your purchase
There are usually a few months between the first warning signs and a fatal failure. The secret to replacing smartly is using that time to land your purchase in the next cheap buying window. Digital devices have several times when prices tend to drop, and the performance is often plenty for everyday use, so it really pays to aim for them.
| When to buy | Why prices drop | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Older models after a new release | Previous models get cheaper when new ones are announced. Performance is often plenty for everyday use | Phones, tablets, PCs |
| Big sales | Discounts plus point rewards on eligible models during Prime Day, Black Friday and similar events | Everything (accessories too) |
| New-life season | Around March, demand for PCs and tablets peaks and special prices are common | Laptops, tablets |
| High point-back days | Stack payment and sale rewards to lower the effective cost | Everything |
You can check specific sale dates in our sale calendar. For back-to-school deals, see PCs and tablets for the new school year, and for stacking rewards, see high-reward payments and sales. Then match your timing to the device you plan to buy.
Sale prices, point rates and campaign terms change over time. Treat discounts like "around XX% off" as rough guides, and check current prices and terms on each online store's official page when you buy. Stock of older models is hard to predict, so pick out the model you want early so you don't miss it.
Living alone, sharing with family, rarely using it: your next device depends on your situation
Take the same slow phone: someone who uses it every day on their commute and someone who turns it on a few times a month need very different timing and models. Here we sort out what to aim for and what to avoid, based on common usage patterns. Just read the one closest to you.
Living alone with "everything on one phone"
If your wallet, keys, transit card and even your two-factor authentication app are all on one phone, that device is your life infrastructure. In this situation, your priority isn't performance or new features. It's "never having it stop working."
Specifically, once the battery's maximum capacity has visibly dropped, or it no longer lasts a day and you find yourself hunting for chargers when you're out, you've already reached the point to consider replacing it. Even if you're happy with performance, a dead phone stops payments and ID verification at the same time. That's why people in this group should choose a model with plenty of OS support left and use that one phone for a long time. It doesn't have to be the latest release; a model with its support end date set several years out is plenty.
What to avoid is buying a cheap entry-level phone as a "stopgap." Entry-level models often have shorter support periods, so you'll face the same problem again in a few years. If your life runs on this phone, choose a mid-range or better model with long support and replace less often. That means less hassle and less risk.
If you live alone, you're especially prone to getting stuck on upgrade day when your two-factor authentication doesn't transfer and you can't log into anything. Before starting the transfer, make sure you've set up backup for your authenticator app and written down your recovery codes. The fewer backup devices you have at home, the more critical this becomes.
Families that share devices or pass them down
If your family shares a PC or tablet, the question is whose usage to plan around. As a rule, choose a shared device to suit the person who uses it most heavily. If someone in the family handles lots of photos and videos, or spends long hours in online classes or meetings, make what works well for them the minimum. If you choose based on someone who only does light tasks, the heavy user ends up unhappy and buys another device, which costs the household more overall.
Passing devices down also works better with one change in thinking. If you're giving your old phone to your child, check how much OS support it has left first. If it has less than a year left, apps may soon stop working and updates may stop coming. In that case, it's safer to decide that hand-me-downs are for Wi‑Fi-only use at home, not the main line for payments and contact. Any device connected to the internet without support shouldn't be used for banking apps or payments.
A common situation with shared family PCs is everyone using one user account. If you replace the PC like that, nobody knows whose data is whose during the transfer, and the job gets much harder. Once you start thinking about replacing it, even just sorting folders by person will make moving to the new device much easier.
People who "only turn it on occasionally"
Think of a spare tablet or a home PC you open only a few times a year. The typical problem here isn't lack of performance but "I opened it after a long time and it doesn't work." There are three main causes.
- The battery has deeply drained after sitting unused, so it won't start even when charged, or it has swollen
- Several generations of OS updates have piled up, so it takes ages of downloading and restarting before you can use it
- You've forgotten the password or login method, or the device with your authenticator app is already gone
If you rarely use a device, decide whether to replace it based not on whether it's slow, but on whether it starts, updates and lets you log in when you need it. Set a day, even just once a year, to turn it on, install updates and check you can log in. This also makes it easier to judge its lifespan.
When choosing, a model with plenty of storage matters more than performance. Rarely used devices often don't have enough free space for the updates that download when you finally turn them on, so the updates fail. Entry-level models with barely enough storage aren't a good fit for this group.
Small spaces with no room on the desk or in storage
In a studio apartment, or when most of your desk is used for other things, the problem when replacing a PC is not the size of the computer itself but the bulk of everything around it. A large power adapter, external drive, hub and all their cables pile up and take over more of the desk than the computer does.
In this situation, these are realistic options:
- Choose a laptop that handles charging and accessories through the same port. That directly cuts the number of cables
- If you mostly use it at a desk, get a separate monitor and a compact computer. It's the monitor stand, not the computer, that eats up desk depth
- If you're using a tablet as a PC, decide first whether you want a model with a built-in keyboard. A separate keyboard always needs somewhere to go when you're not using it
What to avoid is choosing only by screen size, then having nowhere to set it up and ending up not using it. A laptop 15 inches or larger leaves no room for dishes if you use it at the dining table. Before buying, cut a piece of paper to the device's size and place it where you plan to use it. It makes it much harder to choose wrong.
Using one device for both work and personal life
If you're self-employed or work from home with work and personal stuff on one device, "what you lose if it stops working" becomes part of the decision. People in this group usually end up saving money by acting earlier than others.
The reason is simple: if you buy after it breaks, you're limited to whatever's in stock right now. You can't pick your timing, you can't wait for older models to get cheaper, and you have to do the recovery work in between your actual work. For a device your job depends on, the least stressful approach is to buy the next one before it breaks, run both for a while to finish the transfer, then retire the old one.
When replacing a work device, check first whether the software and services you use support the new OS. Specialized business software and drivers for older accessories in particular can be slow to support the latest OS. A new device won't help if the software you need won't run on it.
Summary by situation
| Situation | What to prioritize | What to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Living alone, everything on your phone | Remaining OS support and battery health | Buying a short-support entry-level phone as a "stopgap" |
| Shared with family | Performance for the heaviest user | Choosing for the lightest user / Using an unsupported hand-me-down as a main line |
| Rarely used | Plenty of storage, and checking it starts, updates and logs in | Models with barely enough storage / Leaving it untouched for years |
| Small space | Total footprint including cables and accessories | Choosing by screen size alone |
| One device for work and personal use | Buy before it breaks and transfer while running both | Buying whatever's in stock after it breaks |
Get ahead of data transfer, the step where most people stumble
More than choosing a model, transferring your data is actually where most problems happen. If you scramble after the new device arrives, you could lose photos, get locked out of accounts, or be unable to move your e-money balance. The golden rule: do the prep work while your old device still works.
- Back up firstSave photos, contacts and app data to the cloud, a PC or external storage. While the old device still works, keeping two backups is safest.
- Take stock of your accountsCheck the ID and password for each app, and set up the transfer of two-factor authentication first. Each authenticator app has its own steps for moving to a new device, so check them.
- Mobile wallets and e-moneySome services require you to transfer your balance (deposit it or hand it over) before changing devices. Forget this and your balance could end up stuck.
- Transfer messaging appsApps like LINE have set steps for transferring chat history. Back up on the old device and confirm the phone number and email used for verification before transferring.
- Test the new device before wiping the old oneDon't erase the old device right after the transfer. Make sure everything works on the new one for a few days before getting rid of the old one.
A common trouble spot is services that verify you by phone number. If your number changes, or during the switch to a new line, SMS messages may not arrive, which can trip you up when re-setting banking apps and social media. Do important verification calmly once your new line is working reliably.
Getting rid of your old device safely: erasing and recycling
A retired device still holds a huge amount of personal information: photos, contacts and all kinds of login details. Making sure it's fully erased before you dispose of it is the most important step. It isn't hard if you follow the steps.
- Sign out of your accountsIn particular, Find My / Activation Lock on an Apple Account and similar features must be turned off, or the next person can't use the device and your identity stays linked to it. Sign out of every service.
- Remove SIM and SD cardsCards can contain contacts and photos. Keep them separately from the device, and if you don't need them, dispose of them properly too.
- Full erase (factory reset)Resetting an encrypted device makes the data hard to recover. Simply deleting files can leave data behind, so use the device's "Erase All Content and Settings" feature.
- Collection and recyclingUse your municipality's collection rules, take-back programs from manufacturers, electronics stores and carriers, or small appliance recycling (小型家電リサイクル) collection boxes. Devices contain rare metals, so proper recycling also helps protect the environment.
A factory reset alone can leave signed-in accounts and Activation Lock in place. Stick to the order: sign out → remove cards → reset. If you skip a step, you may face extra setup hassle or a risk of data leaks after the device is gone.
"Oops" moments right after replacing a device, and how to prevent them
Most problems when replacing a device come not from choosing the model but from the small steps before and after. Here are mistakes that really happen when replacing phones, PCs and tablets, each with its cause and fix. None of these can be solved by just "being careful"; you have to take action to prevent them.
Getting locked out by two-factor authentication after giving up your old device
This is the most damaging mistake, and also one of the most common. Authenticator apps (apps that show one-time passwords) are often not included in device backups. Your photos and contacts transfer fine, but the authentication codes are only on the old device, and you've already wiped it. That's how people get stuck.
To avoid this, do the following before transferring:
- Turn on cloud sync in your authenticator appIf the app has a sync feature, turn it on on the old device first. Whether sync is available depends on the app, so be sure to check its settings.
- Write down recovery codes on paperMajor services let you generate backup codes for when you can't use your authenticator app. Saving them on your phone defeats the purpose, so keep them on paper or on your PC.
- Transfer the most important services firstConfirm you can actually log in on the new device, in this order: banking, payments, email, then work accounts.
- Keep the old device for a while without wiping itConnect it to Wi‑Fi and it can still show authentication codes. Don't erase it until you've confirmed logins for all your services.
Thinking "the same storage will do" and running out of space on day one
Choosing the same storage as your old device often turns out to be a mistake. During the years you've used it, photo file sizes and app sizes have grown. On top of that, the OS on a new device takes up more space. So even with the same capacity, you can end up with almost no free space once the transfer is done.
Here's how to decide. Check the storage in use on your old device's settings screen, and choose about double that number for your next device. Then it won't fill up even after a few years. Phones and tablets in particular almost never let you add storage later, so this is one thing you must decide at purchase. Some PCs can be upgraded later depending on the model, but many thin laptops have storage soldered to the board and can't be upgraded, so check in advance.
If you rely entirely on cloud storage to save space, you'll trade one problem for another: not being able to open photos where the signal is weak or on a plane. Estimate your storage assuming you'll keep photos you often look at and documents you need for work on the device itself. That way it stays convenient to use.
Judging the OS support end date by series name alone
Models in the same series can have different support periods. With PCs in particular, even in the same model line, whether you can upgrade to the new OS depends on the CPU generation. It's easy to think "ours is from last year's series, so it's fine," only to find that your particular unit isn't supported.
When checking, look up your device's exact model number, not the series name. On a phone, it's listed under "About phone" (or "About") in Settings; on a PC, check the system information screen. Then compare it with the manufacturer's published list of supported devices. Relying only on in-store displays or roundup articles can lead you to the wrong generation.
"Life-extending" habits that actually shorten its life
Some of the tricks people use to put off replacing a device actually backfire.
- Keeping it charged at 100% all the time: Using a laptop plugged in at a desk all the time puts stress on the battery. Many models have a charge-limit feature, so turning it on helps slow battery wear if you mostly use it plugged in.
- Deleting every app that seems unnecessary: If you disable management apps that shouldn't be removed, updates may stop installing or accessories may stop being recognized. When finding the cause of slowness, start by reviewing apps that launch automatically at startup.
- Continuing to use a swollen battery: If the back of the device is lifting or the edge of the screen is rising, that's not something to try to extend. Stop using it and contact the manufacturer or a specialist repair service. This is the one case where "it'll probably last a bit longer" is not an option.
- Running with storage almost completely full: With no free space, not only do updates fail, but everything slows down. If low storage is the real reason it feels slow and you replace it thinking it's worn out, the same thing will happen on the new device.
Your replacement timing doesn't line up with your contract or warranty
With phones, if you still have installments left on your device or are enrolled in a program from when you bought it, you'll need to check the terms before changing devices. Programs differ by carrier and can change, so before deciding, check what you're currently enrolled in on the account holder's own screen. What you hear in general terms at the store may not match your contract.
Another thing people often overlook is when the manufacturer's warranty or extended warranty expires. If you keep putting it off with "it's acting up, but it still works, so I'll wait," and the warranty expires, repair suddenly becomes a much costlier option. If you're seeing signs of trouble, get it checked while the warranty is still valid, then decide on replacement based on the diagnosis. That gives you more options.
Starting the transfer on the day the new device arrives
If you try to do the whole data transfer on the day it arrives, you'll always run out of time. Syncing photos alone can take hours, and a PC can take a full day. And meanwhile, you can't really use either the old or the new device.
Just changing the order makes it much easier:
- Complete a full backup of the old device before buyingIf it fails, the cause is either free space or your connection. Sort it out before the new device arrives.
- Decide what not to transferDon't bring along apps you haven't opened in years or outdated files. That cuts the transfer time itself.
- When the new device arrives, update the OS firstIf you load data onto it straight out of the box, a big update will kick in right after and interrupt your work.
- Keep the old device for about two weeks after the transferMissing data or services you can't log into usually show up within a few days to two weeks.
- Wipe it only after confirming there are no problemsJust following this order prevents almost all irreversible mistakes.
Assuming your accessories will still work
Accessories you already use are easy to overlook when replacing a device. The port shape may change, the fingerprint sensor may move so the case cutout no longer lines up, or the screen may be a few millimeters different so your screen protector won't fit. These things happen all the time.
With PCs, older printers and scanners may not support the new OS. It's not unusual for a new computer to mean buying new accessories too, and costs to pile up. Checking whether your current devices are compatible while you're still considering a replacement makes it easier to estimate the total cost.
Watch out for chargers too. If your charger doesn't support the charging standard your new device uses, charging can take an extremely long time. On the other hand, continuing to use chargers of unknown standards can cause overheating and problems, so it's a good idea to review your charging setup when you get a new device.
Everyday tips to make your next device last
If you can stretch the replacement cycle itself, you'll save money and the hassle of transferring. Once you have your new device, keep these habits in mind from day one to slow down its lifespan clock.
- Be kind to the battery: Avoid heat, and cut down on running it completely flat or leaving it plugged in at 100%. The slower the battery wears, the longer phones and tablets last
- Leave some free storage: A full device slows down and starts to feel old. Regularly move photos to the cloud or an external drive
- Keep the OS and apps updated: Update regularly for security and stability. Stopping updates brings the deadline-based end of life sooner
- Protect it physically: Use a phone case and screen protector to reduce damage from drops and scratches. Problems with ports and buttons are often where breakdowns start
We go deeper into how to keep your phone going longer in Tips for making your phone last. Small daily habits can push your next replacement back by a year.
FAQ
How different are the replacement cycles for phones, PCs and tablets?
As a rough guide, about 3–5 years for phones, 5–7 years for laptops and 4–6 years for tablets. Battery wear limits phones, slowdowns and OS generation changes limit PCs, and OS support and app performance demands limit tablets. Each has a different personality: PCs are easy to extend with part replacements, phones depend on the battery, and tablets effectively reach the end once OS updates stop, even if the hardware is still fine.
Should I replace my device just because it's slow?
Not necessarily. If the slowness comes from low free space, battery wear or slow storage, you may be able to fix it without a new device. First free up space by moving photos and other files, check the battery health, and for PCs, consider an SSD or more RAM. Try things from cheapest and most effective first, "storage → battery → background apps → parts," and only move on to replacing it if nothing helps or support is ending too. That way, nothing goes to waste.
What's the problem when OS support is about to end?
Security updates stop, making it risky to keep using online payments and logins. Manufacturers publish support end dates, so you can plan your replacement backwards from them. Slowness and battery life are subjective, but the end of support is a lifespan with a fixed deadline. Especially for devices you use for online banking or work, it's best not to keep using them past the deadline. Check the official information for your exact model to find the end date.
My battery is swelling. Should I replace the device right away?
Swelling is the most urgent danger sign. If the back is lifting or the screen is being pushed up, there's a risk of fire or damage, so stop using it and deal with it quickly. If it's a phone that's still fairly new, a battery replacement may cost less than a new phone. Either way, don't keep using it while it's swollen, and decide what to do as soon as possible.
When and how should I buy to keep costs down?
The trick is to land your purchase in the next cheap buying window once warning signs appear, before the device fails completely. Look at older models after a new release, big sales like Prime Day and Black Friday, the new-life season (around March) and high point-back days. A previous-generation model is often plenty for everyday use, so you can save money without giving up performance. Discounts and point rates change, so check current prices and terms on each online store's official page when you buy.
What should I do at minimum before moving to a new device?
Do the prep work while the old device still works. Back up photos, contacts and app data, and check your account IDs, passwords and two-factor authentication transfer settings. Mobile wallets and e-money may need a balance transfer, and messaging apps like LINE have set transfer steps. It's safest to make sure everything works on the new device for a few days before wiping the old one.
How do I safely dispose of an old phone or PC?
Follow this order: "sign out → remove SIM and SD cards → full erase (factory reset) → collection or recycling." In particular, Activation Lock on an Apple Account and similar stays on unless you turn it off, so sign out of every service. For the reset, using "Erase All Content and Settings" on an encrypted device makes the data hard to recover. Then use your municipality's collection rules, take-back programs from manufacturers, electronics stores and carriers, or small appliance recycling collection boxes.
Can I upgrade while I'm still paying off my current device in installments?
You can usually still change devices with installments remaining, but how the remaining balance and any program you're enrolled in are handled differs by carrier. Don't rely on general explanations at the store. Check your current balance and plan details on the account holder's My Page before deciding. Terms can change, so it's safest to check right before you buy.
How much storage should I get on my new device?
Check the storage in use on your old device's settings screen and aim for about double that. Then it won't fill up even after a few years. Photo file sizes and app sizes grow every year, so choosing the same capacity often leaves you with little free space from day one. Phones and tablets can't be upgraded later, so decide when you buy.
After the transfer, when should I wipe my old device?
It's safest not to wipe it right after the transfer, but to keep it for about two weeks first. Missing data or services you can't log into on the new device usually turn up within a few days to two weeks. Two-factor codes in particular may exist only on the old device, so wipe it only after you've confirmed you can log into all your main services.
I opened a tablet I haven't used in a long time and it won't turn on. Is it broken?
A device left unused for a long time can have a deeply drained battery and may not respond right away when plugged in. Leave it connected to a genuine or equivalent charger for about 30 minutes, then try again. If it still doesn't respond, or the body or screen is swelling or lifting, the battery may be faulty. Stop using it and contact the manufacturer's support.
* This article is for reference only. Sale dates, point rates and campaign terms can change, so check each store's official page for the latest details.